Indeed, I have a fondness for the Louis Vuitton brand. It’s not just because it is a luxury brand; I also appreciate its values, exemplified in the recent 2024 S/S Men’s collection. The decision to appoint artist Pharrell Williams as its creative director is a testament to this. Allowing someone who didn’t formally pursue a career in fashion design is a bold choice for a high-end luxury brand, presenting a symbiosis of the art industry.
True to his musician origins, a gospel performance towards the show’s end transformed the runway into a stage. Having experienced the exhilarating atmosphere of Seoul’s backstage makeup scenes, I am always moved by this brand’s value in integrating new art forms.
In this column, from the perspective of a makeup artist closely aligned with the most artistic aspects of the cosmetics industry, I aim to analyze the key fashion trends and makeup data of the men’s collection, forecasting future trends in men’s grooming.
Menswear Fashion & Beauty Trend
Men’s Fashion Trend - 2024 Spring / Summer
1. Various Check Pattern
Stefan Cooke, London
Nicholas Daley, NY
Louis Vuitton, Paris
The tartan check, a complex pattern of two or three layers overlapping, has been a representative check pattern since the 2023 F/W collection. It’s a pattern that is both classic and casual, creating a wide array of looks and moods depending on the color, size, and area of the lines, often bringing to mind Burberry collections. In the 2024 S/S Men’s collection, it appeared across multiple brands and was used as a multifaceted point in setups, casual, and street mood styling.
Fitting for a Spring/Summer collection, the dominant use of pastel-toned fabric materials was a departure from monochrome, simplifying the palette to soften the power dressing aspect.
2. Somewhere Between Graphic Logo & Meaning
Martine Rose, London
Dhruv Kapoor, Milan
The neo-punk look, wearable yet less funky and rebellious, was reinterpreted through text-logo styles. Martine Rose’s runway featured casual-feeling logos, using only the brand’s initial letters mixed with embossed and graphic elements. Incorporating text can risk appearing too youthful, but it lends a practical yet formal feel when styled with oversized jackets or in shirt forms as with the case of Martine Rose’s collection and Dhruv Kapoor’s collection.
Vetements’ collection featured a ‘16 XL’ super-sized hoodie, 16 times larger than their typical oversized hoodies, and used a graphic texture. They also created dress mannequins using high-tech 3D printers. These continuous attempts by fashion houses to utilize AI signify an essential fusion of art and high-tech.
Men’s Beauty Trend - 2024 Spring / Summer
1. Subtle Men’s Under Eyeliner
Dior Men, Paris
In makeup, a fundamental yet impactful method is to focus on the eyes, using colors that contrast with the skin tone. However, this approach was rarely showcased in men’s makeup due to its noticeable effect. This makeup trend is becoming bolder with the rise of the gender-fluid trend.
Kim Jones, the creative director of Dior Homme, presented this collection under the theme ‘New Look to New Wave,’ incorporating moods inspired by women’s fashion. The critical point was creating distinct and lively eyes without appearing overly feminine, using makeup to upgrade men’s grooming while eschewing a feminine feel. The use of monochromatic brown and black eyeliner, almost devoid of shading, to accentuate the lower part of the eyes was notable.
A simple and effective method for men is to apply liner under the pupil for daily eye makeup. As seen in the above-mentioned collection, rather than fully lining the lower waterline, drawing a line only where the pupil is can make the eyes appear more prominent. It’s worth trying for those who wish to enhance the size of their eyes.
2. Blusher Stroke
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, Milan
Achieving minimal coverage while ensuring an even skin tone has surfaced as one trend, particularly in creating a sun-kissed feel with color on contoured areas. In what has traditionally been a conservative domain of men’s makeup, efforts have been made to introduce single-color hues, not just on the cheeks but in other areas. Through color play, blush strokes are made visible enough, yet it’s imperative that the skin is well-prepped to avoid a cluttered appearance. To blend uniqueness with minimalism perfectly, the key lies in using a single color to enhance the natural flush without overburdening the skin, applying it thinly and over a broad area.
On Reddit, a U.S. website known for its fluid gender content, posts about men’s blush received over 100 likes, indicating a lively interest. Liquid blush, in particular, stood out for its ability to add a healthy look to the skin. Given its high pigmentation, a small amount can create a natural, rosy makeup. The detailed usage instructions suggested these posts were from men who often experiment with blush. Like men’s lip balm, which is no longer colorless, a light ‘rosiness’ is predicted to become a part of men’s grooming.
3. Centralized Highlight
Paul Smith, Paris
Emporio Armani, Milan
In the realm of skincare products these days, a frequently emerging keyword on detailed pages is ‘radiance,’ evident regardless of the texture. It suggests a desire for a particular moisturized skin, albeit to varying degrees. A focus accompanies this on perfect base makeup and flawless skin, a continuing theme alongside the S/S Women’s collections.
According to a report by University Tomorrow, luxury self-skincare has become a trend among Gen Z. The effort invested in skincare plays a pivotal role in one’s overall appearance. As the adage goes, the secret to sophistication is good skin! This collection has embraced a holistic moisturization approach for a healthy look, extending beyond applying radiance in specific areas. Moist skin reflects light, enhancing presence without overt display, much like a luxurious accessory. The collection paired understated makeup and hair, creating a sleek and luminous base, brightening under the eyes to prevent the mid-face from appearing elongated and improving complexion.
The glam skin makeup method has been prominent throughout the year, featuring an overall sheen. However, in this season’s men’s fashion house collections, using foundations with high-refractive glow pigments improves skin’s external condition and comforts it with hydration.
4. Slicked-Back Hairstyle
Giorgio Armani, Milan
Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Paris
Echoing the Old Money look that swept 2023; the 2024 Homme collection predicts the rise of ‘Quiet Luxury’ in hairstyling. The voluminous slicked-back style, a key element in masculinity-based tailoring, has captured attention in numerous collections. Melding classicism with visible brush strokes, this Slicked Back hairstyle, intersecting with biker culture, showcases a quintessentially masculine aspect. It reflects light for a shimmering effect in hair while maintaining relative matteness in makeup, creating a basic male image with straight eyebrows.
Overall, the collection features a coexistence of gender-fluid characteristics and traditional masculinity, anticipating growth in the men’s grooming market.
Lee Jin-su, Cha Min-kyungAmorepacific Makeup Professionals Team
The Makeup Professionals Team (HERA division) collected and analyzed the makeup trend keywords used in this column,
which they selected from among the makeup looks seen in numerous design collections.