Editor’s note
As one peruses the latest fashion and beauty magazines, it becomes apparent how simplified makeup has become. Women's makeup trends are now being defined by hashtags like #minimal, #minus_skincare, #one_color_makeup, and #multi_use_items, and it seems these trends influence men’s makeup too. Unlike past seasons' bold, daring looks, today’s styles feature subtle tone corrections and single-color makeup looks.
24 F/W Men’s Collection
Beauty Trend
Monochromatic looks have solidified their place in makeup trends, with a notable decrease in the use of vivid colors. Instead of broad color variations, the emphasis now lies on contours and expanses of skin. In Thailand, makeup looks opt for a visible moist texture to convey glow rather than an overt glittery surface. The concept of 'light makeup' has evolved from merely reducing product quantity to using uniform tones to accentuate various facial features. Notably, lip makeup deserves attention—using a single lipstick shade for eye shadow, cheeks, and lips. This multi-use approach was trendy about 14 years ago and has recently resurfaced as a prominent trend. Such shifts reflect the focused exploration of makeup trends in the male beauty market.
1. Flushed Eye Makeup
Ziggy Chen, Paris
Dries Van Noten, Paris
Bed J.W. Ford, Paris
A new term is gaining popularity in the color lexicon: ‘lukewarm colors.’ These are muted, pale tones that don’t stand out too much. The recent 24 Homme collection featured such hues, applying taupe or muted mauve to eyes and lips.
The term ‘boyish charm’ conjures specific images: slightly flushed skin, eyes rimmed with pink that suggest intensity or fatigue, and a somewhat delicate physique. Since 2022, makeup styles like the tear-stained and hangover looks have become popular on TikTok, appealing broadly for their bold and charming aesthetics. These styles, particularly noticeable in the 24 F/W men's collection, add a provocative touch to men's makeup, aligning the tones across the spectrum. A favorite among Gen-Z, the pot-type lip & cheek products are used to tint the area around the eyes and lips pink. A bright and flawless skin base is essential for the pink to appear fresh and clear; otherwise, it may resemble dark circles more than makeup.
Let’s begin with a glowing base for skin makeup. Strategic highlighting can create the appearance of healthy skin in men with oily skin. When adding color to men’s makeup, care must be taken with the quantity. Overextending the use around the eyes can distort the intended youthful look. Using a cotton swab or a pointed eye shadow brush to apply a small amount avoids the heaviness of typical cream products, enabling a lighter, eye shadow-like finish.
2. Matte More Matte
Saul Nash, London
Gmbh, Paris
Kolor, Paris
In the F/W season, the dry weather often heightens the demand for moist and glossy skin expressions. Yet, the 2024 F/W season sees a shift toward a soft and matte complexion. This is due to advancements in products that, even when matte, incorporate micro-powder particles enhanced with moisturizing capabilities. Nowadays, a makeup approach that aligns well with the fashion house's concept and focuses on the ‘look’ has become increasingly crucial. The autumn and winter seasons favor matte makeup looks that, while matte on the surface, still retain a degree of inner luminosity. Men with peach fuzz or beards might find that applying foundation in circular motions causes fine makeup particles to cling to facial hair, making the makeup look cakey. Applying skincare along the skin's texture and patting it thoroughly for absorption is advisable. For those with relatively large and numerous sebaceous glands, where the foundation might later show excess oiliness, using loose powder is recommended to maintain a matte feel longer. Sulwhasoo Perfecting Powder, inspired by the breathable makeup technology from thousand-year-old Hanji materials, offers a unique texture that feels comfortable on the skin.
3. Faked Tan Blusher Look
Fendi, Milan
Rhude, Paris
Prada, Milan
The color trend that stands out is undoubtedly the ‘blush makeup.’ Historically, the blusher application seemed to follow a standard, with its placement quite fixed. However, today’s approach is to apply blusher as one sees fit, with no universally applicable rules on placement. This technique has lent an iconic yet counterintuitive masculine effect to the latest blusher looks.
Colors are restrained and unified, yet the applied area is expanded to make the blusher more conspicuous. It's akin to a sun-kissed glam look for men, distinctly different from traditional male contouring that prioritizes bone structure. The technique spreads from the front cheekbones to just around the nostrils, intending not just to enhance facial structure but to add color and convey a genderless, definitive trend in makeup. Since the intensity of blushed makeup is crucial, care must be taken with the amount used. Cream blusher or lipstick can be layered easily with a bit of foundation on the back of the hand. However, depending on the lipstick’s formula, it may set quickly on the face, so it’s better not to aim for completion in one go. Applying with fingers or a sponge, finish one half of the face first, then the other, and finally blend the remaining amount over the bridge of the nose to achieve a natural fake tan blusher look.
4. Bold Stroke Contour
Gucci, Milan
Louis Vuitton, Paris
Emporio Armani, Milan
Masculine makeup makes a comeback, with sharply defined facial contours as a focal image. As lighter, clearer skin becomes the norm, the intense and deep contouring once popular has diminished. However, targeted contouring makeup remains relevant, enhancing the depth from the eyelids and cheekbones to the jawline, contributing to a more dimensional face. Contouring is most effective when aiming for a resolute expression. However, since contouring can lead to patchy appearances if blended improperly, it’s crucial to differentiate the areas to highlight and shadow. Defining the area before adding color is also recommended, as estimating by eye can lead the brush to cover a broader area than intended, leading to an awkward appearance. One critical aspect of men's makeup is its subtlety; hence, adjusting brightness rather than color is a more effective strategy. Thinking in terms of photography helps; a photograph changes the size and clarity of objects based on how light hits the subject. Utilizing light and shadow effectively and mastering contouring is vital for enhancing or compensating facial features. Remember, the ultimate goal of contouring is to create a fake shadow that, even under uniform lighting, produces a darker effect as if real shadows are present.
5. Lips with a Vaseline Gloss
Wooyoungmi, Paris
Dior Men, Paris
Derrick, London
The phrase "Vaseline gloss" has been resonating more frequently these days. Named to resemble a thick, flowing liquid of glitter, it describes lips that appear to have been generously coated with Vaseline, offering a clear and luminous glossiness. However, a notable shift from the past is the increased saturation—covering the lips' natural dark tones while enhancing their color, making the overall hue significantly richer.
Even the slightest variation can dramatically transform the look of men's makeup. One simple and effortlessly beautifying technique is to deepen the redness of the lips. Given the limited range of color expressions typical in men's faces, an adequate saturation can be achieved with minimal area coverage. This leads many male consumers to prefer tinted lip balms over mere moisturizing ones. From an artist’s perspective, this trend feels somewhat like a ‘scavenger hunt’—achieving maximum impact with minimal effort, one might say. In anticipation of expanding the men's makeup market, I look forward to the launch of various products that cater to a gender-neutral palette, completing the light-toned makeup look.
Men generally find the sticky or heavy feeling of certain textures unbearable. By dominating the male lip category, one could strategize to capture the unique shopping routines of beauty-minimalist men, starting with purchases at promotional events like those at Olive Young, followed by repeat buying. Consequently, a significant market share in lip care is anticipated.
Written by
Jin-su Lee, Min-kyung Cha Makeup Professionals Team
The Makeup Professionals Team (HERA division) collected and analyzed the makeup trend keywords used in this column, which they selected from among the makeup looks seen in numerous design collections.
Image courtesy spotlight.launchmetrics.com
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