A 20-Year History Written in Tteokbokki, Becoming a Symbol of Yongsan
It started as a street stall in 2004 and became a symbol of Yongsan with its spicy tteokbokki, ‘Hyunsunine.’ We met with co-CEO Kim Sang-ho, who cherishes Amorepacific as a pivotal supporter of Hyunsunine's founding.
Co-CEO Kim Sang-ho in front of Hyunsunine's Yongsan headquarters
The Small Street Stall in front of Yongsan Station is the Beginning of the ‘Hyunsunine Universe’
How did you start your business?
Following my parents' wishes, I enrolled in physical education to become a teacher. But I've always wanted to start a business since I was young. Being the fourth among five siblings, I suggested to my third sister, Hyunsun, that we start a business together. She was skilled in cooking. She took care of the food, and I handled the operations. In 2004, we started a street stall in front of Yongsan Station. However, my parents were vehemently opposed when I mentioned running a street stall. After all they had provided, I felt sorry for insisting on my own way. I explained everything to my sister and decided to step back from the business for a while. Then, I passed the teacher certification exam and became a physical education teacher. While I taught for about eight years, Hyunsun managed the street stall, and my second sister helped her. I assisted with the operations a bit but always felt a lingering attachment. Although I enjoyed teaching, business seemed to suit me better. My sisters reached out, asking me to return. So, I decided to quit teaching and jumped into the business. Since then, the three of us – my second sister, third sister, and I – have been co-CEOs.
How was the street stall era?
The original menu wasn't tteokbokki but spicy fish cakes and chicken skewers. But the business wasn't doing well. So, we switched to spicy tteokbokki, believing it had more market potential. Indeed, the response was much better. Around that time, E-Mart and CGV opened at Yongsan Station, bringing vitality to the area, and our business started to improve significantly. There were a few other street stalls around us, and that area became known as a hotspot in Yongsan, attracting many people. Ours became the most popular, which made it even more well-known. I realized that business requires a period of perseverance.
‘Hyunsunine’ in its street stall period, 2004
Why did Hyunsunine mainly thrive?
Even at that time, there were many aficionados of spicy tteokbokki. Taste was crucial, of course, but we strove to elevate our street food beyond its humble origins with an emphasis on cleanliness and extended warmth and courtesy to our patrons. To this day, we adhere to a trifecta of principles: ‘deliciousness, cleanliness, and friendliness.’ We believe these three tenets are the cornerstone of a successful business. We also endeavored to break from convention. While most street vendors bought their fried offerings from markets, we took pride in preparing and frying our own. This fresh approach was well-received by our customers, who appreciated our efforts to cook other menu items to order. It was these small efforts, I believe, that were recognized and appreciated.
What motivated the focus on spicy tteokbokki?
My sisters had a penchant for spicy food. Everything they served was inevitably fiery. It seems that what appealed to our tastes also resonated with our customers. At the time, a few restaurants in Singil-dong were famous for their spicy jjamppong and pork cutlets. Aficionados of spicy food would embark on a culinary quest, and Hyunsunine was among their stops.
The Journey from Commerce to Business: From Street Stall to Brand
How did the name “Hyunsunine” come about?
We believed branding was essential for the longevity of our business. It was important to choose a name and transition from a street cart to a formal storefront. The name evolved naturally from what customers called us during street vending. Some referred to us as “Yongsan Tteokbokki,” or “Yongtteok” for short, and others by “Hyunsunine,” after my younger sister. While “Yongtteok” had merits, “Hyunsunine” conveyed a warmth and familiarity that felt right. Moreover, it was a way to honor my sister's contributions and struggles in managing the business while I was a teacher. After much deliberation, “Hyunsunine” was chosen.
What prompted the move from a street cart to a formal storefront?
Operating a street cart brought legal hurdles, including routine confiscations and fines. The daily uncertainty and inconvenience it caused our loyal customers made us yearn for stability. The desire to establish a permanent presence and shed the illegal status of our operation was strong. With “Hyunsunine” as our chosen name, we secured a modest space near Seoul Culture Publishing. It was pretty out of the way. In our twenties, we were naive to the importance of location and market dynamics. Yet, buoyed by the success of our street cart, we were confident.
The First Storefront of ‘Hyunsunine’
How was the reception upon transitioning to a storefront?
It was, bluntly put, a ‘disaster.’ The first month saw daily sales barely reach 150,000 won despite using the same successful recipes on the street. We had no choice but to persevere, believing that maintaining our commitment to deliciousness, cleanliness, and friendliness would eventually draw in customers. And it did. Slowly, patronage increased, and word spread that this was the same Hyunsunine from the street cart days. At a time when a single serving of tteokbokki cost 2,500 won, we managed to achieve sales of 3 million won in a day from that small space. Our breakthrough came when we were featured as a top spot for spicy tteokbokki on a TV program. Even in 2009, the influence of terrestrial TV was immense. Following the broadcast, lines formed outside our store, and my phone rang incessantly until the battery died. That exposure solidified our reputation not only in Yongsan but also across Seoul. Eventually, we moved to our current location, where customers continued to seek us out. It was then I realized how much Hyunsunine's brand recognition had grown.
Hyunsunine's Yongsan Flagship Store Today
How did you expand your business?
As our business flourished, we received numerous inquiries about franchising. This prompted us to consider whether to focus solely on our existing store or to expand externally. We realized that scaling up was essential for enhancing our competitive edge and ensuring the longevity of our business. However, franchising involves sharing authority, which can lead to variations in each store's character and potentially lower the quality of taste and service. We pondered whether it was worth risking the brand we had painstakingly built over the years for additional revenue. After much deliberation, we decided to expand through directly managed stores only. Initially, we planned to grow gradually, but expansion happened more swiftly than anticipated, reaching 16 locations within three years. This rapid growth brought its own set of challenges, primarily the scarcity of capable managers to maintain consistent food quality and service across all locations. Ultimately, we decided to reduce the number of stores to a manageable level. We operate seven directly managed stores, run by family members and employees who have been with us for over a decade.
Family is the Last Bastion
How did you divide the roles among family members?
The division of labor was clear: my sisters took charge of the food while I managed the operations. They focused on sauce and recipe development, and I oversaw the overall management. We made sure our roles did not overlap.
Did working with family lead to conflicts, and how were they resolved?
Operating as a family for 20 years, we faced our share of conflicts, some escalating to severe arguments. Looking back, the longevity of our business can be attributed to our fair division of shares and our efforts to respect each other's domains, minimizing overlap in our roles. During conflicts, my sisters showed considerable understanding. A heated moment could have ended everything, but we always managed to find our way through. I am forever grateful and hold deep respect for them.
I believe “family can be both the last bastion and a potential adversary.” Being too familiar with family can lead to negligence, which, when accumulated, can explode into serious conflicts. As long as we are cautious, the family remains the ultimate support, the ones who truly stand by you in the end. Maintaining boundaries and not taking each other for granted can transform families into the most reliable allies.
Hyunsunine's CEOs: Kim Seo-yeon, Kim Hyun-sun, Kim Sang-ho
Excelling at What We Do Best
What do you think is why Hyunsunine has continued receiving love and support?
Focusing on a distinctive element while striving for continual improvement seems crucial. For Hyunsunine, that unique factor has been our spicy tteokbokki. Customers seek places that excel, even slightly, in one menu item. A diverse but mediocre menu does not attract crowds. Thus, understanding ingredients and closely observing customers' tastes is vital. Ingredients, being natural, vary greatly. For instance, we only use high-grade flour, which our customers notice in the texture of our tteokbokki. We constantly search for superior ingredients. Quality ingredients and excellent recipes inevitably lead to delicious food. Keeping up with changing customer preferences is also crucial. For example, customers today are less tolerant of spicy foods compared to the past. Being on the ground, I've witnessed this shift, prompting us to adjust the spiciness level of our tteokbokki while keeping the menu constant. There's a growing demand for milder options.
Our family-run, directly managed store model allows us to adapt to customer feedback, setting us apart swiftly.
What's the most recommended dish for first-time visitors?
Hyunsunine does not boast a wide variety of menu items. We recommend our set menus, which offer a taste of everything from tteokbokki to fried snacks, kimbap, and sundae. The Baby Set is perfect for solo diners, while the Hyunsunie Set suits 2-3 people. Enjoy the fried items drenched in tteokbokki sauce initially, then try them separately to appreciate their crispy texture and inherent flavors.
CEO Kim Sang-ho's Recommended Set Menu
When will the meal kits be available?
We've been constantly pondering how to translate Hyunsunine's offline strengths into the online realm, identifying meal kits as the solution to this quandary. Despite receiving numerous proposals from various companies, all were declined in favor of maintaining direct control over quality. Many have been disappointed by meal kits from their favorite eateries, a sentiment we understand well. Outsourcing compromises taste assurance, potentially harming customers and our brand image. Thus, from last year, every step, from the creation to the distribution of meal kits, has been handled in-house. We're currently finalizing our efforts to ensure our meal kits closely replicate the in-store dining experience.
The Tteokbokki Meal Kit Currently in Preparation
Why do you opt out of external marketing activities?
There was a time, about a decade ago, when we frequently appeared on broadcasts. As Hyunsunine gained popularity, invitations poured in, leading us to participate in shows roughly every three months. However, a moment of reflection led me to question this path. Hyunsunine wasn't aiming for the mass market; our focus was, and remains, on our local clientele. This realization prompted a decision to cease broadcasting activities. Even when approached by ‘Baek Jong-won's Top 3 Chefs,’ a decision was made to decline, unaware of the show's impending success. Looking back, I sometimes wonder about that decision, but it reaffirmed our commitment to focusing on the core of our business and maintaining the quality of our offerings.
Two Decades of Unwavering Philosophy: Delicious, Clean, Friendly
What do you attribute to the steady sales?
Though there have been ups and downs, we've never seen a significant drop in sales. I believe this is due to our focus on maintaining quality without excessively expanding our menu. As mentioned, we strive to excel in what we do, ensuring customers can always expect the same great taste at Hyunsunine. Additionally, being a signature keyword associated with Yongsan plays a significant role. Visitors to Yongsan are unlikely to opt for franchise tteokbokki shops, contributing to our sustained sales.
Have you ever experienced burnout or stress?
My nature is such that I seldom succumb to stress. Rather than dwelling on the past or fretting about the future, I focus my energies on solving the problems at hand. I'm inclined to search for the best possible solution in any given situation. I view the future as a series of challenges to be addressed, not worried over. I pay more attention to my physical health than my mental well-being; if my health deteriorates, I become incapable of managing the responsibilities I've taken on. I've cut out alcohol and cigarettes and maintain a regular exercise routine.
What advice would you give to those new to the food industry?
Success is attainable in any sector, not just in snack bars, provided you carve out your market. Hyunsunine, though a tteokbokki joint, does not consider every tteokbokki establishment to be competition. Chains like ‘Yeopgi Tteokbokki’ or ‘Jaws Tteokbokki’ are not our rivals. We found our competition among outstanding tteokbokki shops that mainly attract customers to their physical locations. Our goal is to be the best within our defined market. This market definition guides our decision-making and helps narrow our target customer base. Creating your market and understanding who your customers are is vital to success.
What philosophy do you emphasize the most in your business?
As I've mentioned repeatedly, the philosophy centers around being “delicious, clean, and friendly.” These three principles are constantly stressed to our staff. We're not just selling food; we're selling these three attributes together. If our tteokbokki is priced at ten thousand won, then the deliciousness, cleanliness, and friendliness are valued within that price. If taste were all that mattered, one might as well buy their meals from a supermarket. I always emphasize to our employees that their salaries include the cost of providing these services, which is likely why we receive positive customer feedback regarding our service.
Hyunsunine X Amorepacific
When was the biggest crisis since starting the business?
Amorepacific has been like a founding benefactor to us, having supported Hyunsunine from its early days. Thus, the temporary relocation of Amorepacific's headquarters due to construction was the biggest crisis we've ever encountered. Since a significant portion of our revenue came from Amorepacific employees, we decided to follow them to Euljiro. We spent a week outside the relocated building, opening a direct sales store there and handing out free tteokbokki and fried snacks. The surprise and warmth we received from the Amorepacific employees helped us weather that storm and establish a foothold in the area, where we continue to thrive.
The Cheonggyecheon Direct Store Still Thriving
Do you have a message for Amorepacific employees?
Since the early days, I've always been thankful for your support of Hyunsunine. I feel a sense of camaraderie and have tried to reciprocate that affection, though I'm not sure how well I've expressed it. I generally don't do much public relations, but I promised to do this interview with Amorepacific because of that gratitude.
How do you wish to develop your business in the future?
Hyunsunine is now approaching its 20th year, which I see as another pivotal moment. Having done well domestically gives me confidence that we can also succeed in broader markets. We're planning to expand into Malaysia soon. Rather than expecting immediate success overseas, I'm ready to face some trials and errors, hoping the next generation can continue to build on what we establish.
Lastly, what does ‘tteokbokki’ mean to you?
Tteokbokki is ‘my expression.’ Choosing tteokbokki at a young age, I feel like I've continually expressed myself through it for 20 years. It's also a record of my youth. I plan to keep expressing myself with tteokbokki in the years to come.
An Interview with Hyunsunine's Kim Sang-ho, Co-CEO
epilogue
Kim Sang-ho, the co-CEO of Hyunsunine, is confident in the brand's potential to endure for over a century. As he continues to weave new narratives through tteokbokki, transcending generations, and borders, there's much anticipation for the future chapters of Hyunsunine.
‘100 Hangang-daero’ brings you interviews with business owners around Amorepacific, exploring the value and meaning of work through stories of passion, perseverance, and overcoming adversity.
Interview Shin Hye-won
Photos Design Mong
Planning Amorepacific Communications Team
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