Timeless Yet Ever New
For over 30 years, a stalwart guardian has graced the Shinyongsan area with its green presence. Known to Gen Z for its ‘retro charm,’ Green Hof is experiencing a renewed golden age. AmoreStories sat down with its owner, Gi-yeon Choi.
In Front of ‘Green Hof’ with Owner Gi-yeon Choi
A Young Couple Embarks on a Green Hope and Opens Green Hof
It’s been over 30 years since Green Hof first opened its doors.
How did it all begin?
We opened the shop in September 1990. My wife and I were both employed at the time—I was in sales for a small company, and she worked in sales for a cosmetics company. However, our jobs weren’t stable; our salaries were low and irregular. We decided it would be better to start our own business while still young. Using our savings as capital, we plunged into entrepreneurship. We initially started as a bossam (boiled pork) restaurant. It was highly challenging, especially with no prior experience. My lack of cooking skills meant we had to hire kitchen staff, which brought its own set of management issues. Ingredient management was also complex. Despite working tirelessly, the profit margins were slim, making it unsustainable. After two years, we decided to change our business model.
Why a Hof?
The issues we faced with restaurant staff led us to seek a business my wife and I could manage independently. A friend running a hof suggested it, saying it was more manageable. We received considerable help from him in the beginning.
Did the situation improve after switching to a Hof?
Significantly. Running a restaurant tied us down from morning till night, but the hof opened late afternoon and closed late at night, providing us free time in the mornings. This newfound flexibility allowed us to exercise and maintain our health. Since the two of us could handle the operations, we were free from the stress of managing staff. The ingredients were more straightforward to manage, and the work became more enjoyable. Although sales didn't skyrocket, we started to enjoy the business genuinely and felt we could sustain it for the long haul.
What does ‘Green Hof’ mean?
We chose the name because we liked the fresh image that the color green evokes. We designed our sign to reflect this freshness. That sign has been up for over 30 years. A sign on the side also says ‘Hite Beer,’ a relic from when beverage companies would support signage. We keep it as a testament to our 30-year history.
The Signboards Bearing the History of ‘Green Hof’
How did you develop your menu?
We learned from friends and researched popular hof menu items, discussing them extensively. Initially, we faced numerous trial-and-error moments. For example, the consistency of the batter and temperature control are crucial for frying chicken, and our early results were inconsistent. By observing customer feedback, we gradually refined our recipes. Over time, our accumulated experience honed our instincts. Nothing seems to happen overnight, and now people even call us a ‘chicken hotspot.’
Why did you choose Shinyongsan for your shop? Do you have any connections here?
We had no prior connections. While searching for a location, we passed through this area and inquired at a real estate office, which led us to this spot. We wanted a spot next to a main road; fortunately, this place fit the bill. Today, the area is bustling with buildings and people, but 30 years ago, it was pretty underdeveloped and nearly deserted on weekends. This allowed us to afford the rent despite its prime location. We didn't have a specific target customer in mind initially. Luckily, Amorepacific was nearby, and many employees became our regulars, becoming our primary customer base.
What goals did you have when you started?
It was a brutal era, and we couldn't rely on our parents for help. My idea of success back then was self-reliance—supporting a family independently. We didn't have the luxury of aiming for grand goals; we aimed for a better life than our current situation. Starting from a modest rental room with my wife, we gradually improved our circumstances. Although we didn’t make a fortune, we earned enough to live comfortably, which I consider a success.
The Very Old Is Actually New
What was Green Hof like in the early days?
Today’s appearance, remodeled in 2009, differs from the original. Back then, the space was divided into rooms by partitions. When transitioning from a bossam restaurant to a hof, we retained as much of the original interior as possible to save costs. It seemed charming then, but those compartmentalized spaces felt like wasted areas as our customer base grew. So, in 2009, we decided to renovate. Unfortunately, I don’t have any photos from those days since it wasn’t common to take pictures like it is now.
The wall decorations are pretty unique.
The decor items are things I personally picked up at the Hwanghakdong Market. I had no particular expertise; I just bought unique and exciting things. These items aren’t your typical decorations. I hung up pieces that I liked, and this eclectic mix created the atmosphere you see now. Customers didn’t pay much attention back then, but today’s younger generation is susceptible to aesthetics. They love the ambiance and often take photos of each item. I recently tried to find more pieces, but they’re almost impossible to find now.
Items Filled with Nostalgia from That Era
It's said that many Gen Z customers are flocking to your place these days.
It’s fascinating to me. After the pandemic, we started seeing a surge of younger customers. They talk about the ‘retro vibe.’ Even though we’ve been here for a long time, it’s just our usual setting, so we don’t see it as anything special. However, to young people, it looks pretty fresh. These new customers rave about our beer and snacks, spreading the word and drawing in more young patrons. Sometimes, we even have a waiting line. It’s incredible to experience this resurgence. It has brought a lot of excitement into our once-monotonous routine. Nowadays, I genuinely enjoy this new phase.
‘Green Hof,’ a Hotspot for Gen Z
Do you do any promotions?
I’m not adept at using social media. People from our generation usually aren’t. But customers often tell us, “This was posted somewhere,” or “I came because I saw this online.” Recently, a customer showed me a photo of our sign on social media, with the description entirely in English. It turns out a famous foreign photographer posted it. It was both surprising and gratifying. We never imagined our little shop would gain international attention. We are very thankful for all the mentions.
At Green Hof, Enjoy ‘Anything You Like’
What’s the best-selling item at Green Hof?
Unsurprisingly, beer and chicken are our top sellers. Spicy whelk (golbaengi) is also a surprisingly popular menu item.
Breweries have recognized you for having the best draft beer.
What’s your secret?
Our beer is uniquely cold, almost icy. I believe the key to great beer is its temperature. While the typical cold draft beer is served at around four °C, we lower ours to 2-3°C. We store the beer in a refrigerator for about a day before serving it through a chiller. This old-fashioned method contrasts with the now-common practice of using only chillers. Pre-chilling the beer makes a significant difference in the refreshing, crisp taste. Chillers alone can’t replicate that sensation. Even when brewery representatives come for inspections and tell me no one does it this way anymore, I insist on maintaining this method.
Additionally, machine maintenance is crucial—essentially, it’s all about cleaning. While it sounds simple, it’s pretty meticulous work. We regularly clean and inspect the pipes.
Green Hof’s Bestseller: Draft Beer
Known for Both Beer and Chicken.
Is there a secret to why your chicken is so delicious?
I wouldn't say there’s a specific secret. If there is one, we’ve stuck to our cooking methods over the years. We never use frozen chicken; instead, we get fresh chicken daily and use it the same day. We also don’t pre-fry and reheat the chicken; we fry it fresh to order. I believe customers appreciate these details.
The Signature Dishes of ‘Green Hof,’ Embodying 30 Years of Expertise
Does Green Hof have a hidden gem on the menu?
We have a menu item called ‘Anything.’ It’s a platter with fruits, various fried items (like French fries, pork cutlets, and fish cutlets), and vegetables. Young customers find it unique and enjoyable. Many regulars aren’t aware of this item, so I’d like to recommend it to them.
‘Anything,’ the Hidden Gem of Green Hof
Lighting Up Shinyongsan with a Green Glow
What’s your daily routine like?
Hof operations run late. We’re open until 2 a.m. After closing, we clean up and prepare ingredients for the next day, finishing around 3 a.m. I usually wake up around 10:30 a.m. and spend the morning at the gym. I’ve been going to the gym for about 20 years now. I guess I tend to stick to things. After two hours of exercise, I head to the shop to prepare for business. This includes ordering supplies and sometimes buying ingredients directly if they can’t be delivered. We open the shop at 4 p.m.
It sounds like you don’t have much morning time.
But having that time is incredibly valuable. Taking long vacations is hard, but having my mornings free every day is very satisfying.
When do you spend time with family and friends?
We usually take Sundays off. However, we’ve been opening on Sundays lately because many customers visit, only to find us closed. We try to open on Sundays as often as we can. Since most shops are closed on Sundays, the streets are dark, and I feel we should open to brighten the area a bit. Plus, a part of me wants to work as much as possible while I’m still healthy.
How have you managed to work together as a couple for so long?
People often ask how we manage to work together without fighting. The truth is, we’re too busy to argue. As far as I can remember, we’ve never had a significant fight while working(laughs). Even if we have disagreements, working together forces us to communicate and resolve things quickly. My wife is from Chungcheong Province, and I’m from Gangwon Province, known for having mild-tempered people. However, my wife is even more mild-mannered than I am. Sometimes, I wish she would express her opinions more assertively, but her gentle nature has undoubtedly helped us get this far. The most significant advantage of working together is that we can rely on and support each other through difficult times.
It must have been tough raising children while running the business.
When we first opened the shop, I believe our son was seven. Working late hours meant we had little time to care for our children. My wife juggled between the shop and home, which was challenging. Despite the difficulties, we didn’t feel overwhelmed, perhaps because we were young. As time passed, our children grew up and started helping with the business. They acknowledge our hard work and offer us comfort and support, which is the most rewarding part of being parents.
Aging Alongside Our Customers
You've run the shop for a long time. What has been your driving force?
I am quite an unassuming person, not particularly fond of change and not sensitive to trends. I don’t have many ambitions. I’ve kept doing what I’ve always done, and before I knew it, 30 years had passed. You could call it perseverance (laughs). Rather than a specific driving force, I think my personality played the most prominent role.
Have you faced any crises along the way?
Of course, we have. During the COVID-19 pandemic, we even considered closing the business. With restrictions on late-night operations and large gatherings, bars were hit the hardest. Many establishments shut down. We were running at a loss. While we received loans, they eventually needed to be repaid. It's not as if revenues would suddenly increase overnight. We seriously contemplated closing the doors. However, we managed to hold on, bit by bit, and now we have customers who appreciate us, making us glad we persevered.
Another challenging period was when Amorepacific temporarily relocated during their office construction. We waited a long time for their return. Those of us who had been here for a while shared the same sentiment. It was a relief when they returned after 6-7 years, although many of our old regulars had retired or moved on by then. It was a bittersweet realization of how much time had passed.
When have you felt the happiest in your business?
The greatest joy has been seeing our children grow up well. The immense happiness derived from running this business is raising them through Green Hof and now having the means to provide for them comfortably.
Additionally, having run the shop in one place for so long, I grow older alongside our customers. A customer who was a young lieutenant 30 years ago recently returned as a colonel, about to become a general. There’s an indescribable sense of camaraderie in these moments. Some customers express gratitude for not closing down and maintaining the same atmosphere. Those moments are genuinely touching. I’m doing this interview partly in the hope that those who have found memories of Green Hof might come across it and reconnect with us.
Ah, the Nostalgic 'Taepyeongyang Hof'
Do you have any memorable episodes with Amorepacific employees
who are known to frequent your place?
When we first opened, the company was known as ‘Taepyeongyang,’ and Taepyeongyang Pharmaceuticals was also nearby. Their employees frequented our shop so much that they nicknamed it ‘Taepyeongyang Hof.’ Everyone knew each other, exchanged greetings, and often paid for each other’s tables. The hall was always packed with their employees.
I also remember how noticeable the new recruits were during company dinners. They looked nervous and handled orders and errands. Over time, these same individuals would return as team leaders with their subordinates, showing newfound confidence. Some even rose to executive and president positions. Many have since retired but still gather here frequently.
Amorepacific has been an excellent support for us and remains a remarkable presence. With the rise of the Yongridan-gil area, more customers are coming from different regions, and while company dining cultures have changed, it’s a bit sad that we don’t see them as often. I hope they visit more frequently.
How long do you want to continue running Green Hof?
As long as my health permits, I want to keep going. Friends who worked at companies have retired and envy me. They say being home all day leads to pointless arguments with their spouses (laughs). They remind me of how fortunate I am to be still able to work. I feel the same; I want to keep working if I can. Many long-time businesses in the area have closed, so I want to continue holding down the fort in Shinyongsan for as long as possible.
What do you envision for yourself ten years from now?
In 10 years, I’ll be in my 80s, a time for quiet reflection. I imagine spending more time with my family and enjoying leisure time. I’d love to indulge in hiking, which I’ve missed over the years.
Interview with Gi-yeon Choi, Owner at ‘Green Hof’
epilogue
Here, some reminisce about old memories while others create new ones. I hope Green Hof continues to illuminate Shinyongsan with its green glow for many years to come.
‘100 Hangang-daero’ brings you interviews with business owners around Amorepacific, exploring the value and meaning of work through stories of passion, perseverance, and overcoming adversity.
Interview Hye-won Shin (Papervore)
Photos Design Mong
Planning Amorepacific Communications Team
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