#Across Generations: Solving Skin Concerns with Anti-Aging Ingredients ‘Retinol,’ ‘Caffeine’

The ‘slow aging’ trend, which has firmly established itself from the latter half of last year, continues into this year. Notably, the most popular hashtag on TikTok, primarily used by Gen Z, is #ANTIAGING. It’s recording explosive view counts, with ‘anti-aging’ hitting 7.9 billion and ‘wrinkles’ 2.4 billion views.⁽¹⁾

1. Retinol

In 2023, ‘Retinol’ unequivocally established itself as the cornerstone of anti-aging, becoming the hottest skincare ingredient on TikTok. According to search data by age group on Amore Mall and innisfree Mall, 27% of people in their twenties and 35% in their thirties have searched for it, making it the top ingredient of interest among Millennials and Gen Z.

Among the retinol-containing products, innisfree’s ‘Retinol Cica Repair Ampoule’ stands out with unparalleled sales figures. Since its launch, it has surpassed 3 million units⁽²⁾ sold domestically and reached over 1 million units⁽³⁾sold in Japan by the end of last year. Mentioned alongside “retinol” in Google searches, it’s not an exaggeration to call it the quintessential retinol item. Reviews often highlight its remarkable effects, including hypoallergenic, improvement in skin texture, blemishes, and elasticity, with comments like, “It’s a retinol ampoule, but it doesn’t irritate at all and has a great texture,” and “I was surprised at how calm and soft my skin felt immediately after application, having heard that one must start anti-aging with retinol from their twenties.”

IOPEhas made an impressive record by securing three of the top five best-selling positions with products featuring different concentrations of retinol (Retinol Expert 0.1%, 0.3%, etc.), indicating that various options have contributed to their popularity. Additionally, the development of retinol in multiple forms, such as ingestible retinol and retinol lip serum, suggests that retinol is a crucial ingredient that continues to evolve.

2. Caffeine

As our fifth trend report mentioned, while retinol is renowned for improving wrinkles and skin tone and treating acne, it can be challenging to approach due to potential irritation when used beyond its appropriate concentration or dosage. Recently, ‘caffeine’has emerged as a noteworthy alternative to retinol.

The search volume for caffeine ingredients has seen the highest growth rate, propelled by the launch of IOPE’s ‘PDRN Caffeine Shot.’ Caffeine particles are one-eighteenth the size of low molecular weight collagen, allowing for rapid and efficient absorption into the skin, resulting in impressive elasticity and lifting effects. As a plant-based ingredient, caffeine is poised to become indispensable in the burgeoning vegan and clean beauty market. Reviews testify to its anti-aging efficacy, with users noting,“My skin immediately felt firmer and more refined, with less noticeable pores right after application,” and, “It envelops the skin smoothly, absorbing quickly while leaving a lasting firmness,”underscoring its nickname as a #LiftingAmpoule.

1. www.allurekorea.com/2024/03/03/%eb%b3%b4%ed%86%a1%ec%8a%a4-%eb%a7%9e%eb%8a%94-10%eb%8c%80%eb%93%a4/?utm_source=naver&utm_medium=partnership
2. Cumulative sales from September 1, 2021, to December 31, 2023, both domestic and global, reached 3,115,701 units.
3. https://www.theguru.co.kr/mobile/article.html?no=63865

#Trouble Improvement’s Go-to Ingredient, ‘Cica’

Matching retinol in popularity among the 2030 age group is ‘cica.’ Ranking fourth among all ingredient searches, cica, short for ‘Centella Asiatica,’ is increasingly featured in products aimed at sensitive skin, known for its exceptional ability to soothe skin inflammation and aid recovery. A notable trend among recently launched cica products is their hybrid formulation. For instance, innisfree’s ‘Retinol Cica Repair Ampoule Serum’ is a prime example of a product that synergizes the benefits of retinol and cica for optimal effects. Upcoming products include B.READY’s ‘Cicaffeine Trouble Reset Serum,’ AESTURA’s ‘A-CICA 365 Blemish Calming Serum,’ and mise-en-scène’s ‘Salon 10 Professional Cica Protein Treatment.’

AESTURA’s ‘A-CICA 365 Blemish Calming Serum’ contains 78% high-concentration cica microsome,soothing the skin and improving texture and redness with just one use. Thanks to the 2% inclusion of niacinamide, its notable effectiveness in treating blemishes and brightening the skin has made it a preferred product, especially for trouble care, maintaining its top spot on Amorepacific.
B.READY’s ‘Cicaffeine Trouble Reset Serum,’ on the other hand, goes beyond soothing to enhance skin’s resilience, featuring beta-sitosterol, the next-generation cica ingredient, and green coffee bean caffeine for reducing pore size. Developed in collaboration with beauty YouTuber ‘Swan’ and endorsed by 50 panelists from Korea’s largest men’s skincare community ‘Beyond Grooming’ over 300 days and five consumer surveys, it enjoys high credibility among male customers. Ranking high among products with the keyword ‘trouble’ on Olive Young Mall, the product resets the vicious cycle of irritation, troubles, and scars.
mise-en-scène’s ‘Salon 10 Professional Cica Protein Treatment’ combines cica for sensitive scalp care and protein for hair nutrition, containing 3,000 ppm of Cica Protein. It offers a salon-quality finish without oily residue,⁽¹⁾ cares for both hair and scalp and has satisfied customers with oily skin, recording a 100%⁽²⁾ satisfaction rate among professionals.
Based on cica, a proven ingredient for soothing sensitive skin, these three products have garnered much attention by combining specific ingredients to meet consumers’ skincare concerns. Products that combine cica with other effective ingredients like azulene, tea tree, and vitamins are increasingly being launched across the industry, indicating this trend is likely to continue.

1. Hair designers 30 people, used for 5 days, evaluation survey period: 23.10.10~23.10.14, Survey agency: Ino Company
2. Test agency: DermaPro Corporation, Test period: 23.10.10~23.11.10, Survey target: 21 customers with oily scalps

#Solutions for Dry Skin: Moisturizing Ingredients ‘Ceramide,’ ‘Hyaluronic Acid’

When skin is prone to dryness due to fine and yellow dust in the spring, the demand for moisturizing products notably increases. However, we’ve discovered that even among those with dry skin, preferences for moisturizing ingredients vary according to specific concerns.

1. Ceramide

Dry skin, inherently sensitive to irritation, finds solace in products that offer safe moisturizing care. One such product is ILLIYOON’s ‘Ceramide Ato Lotion.’

As the product name suggests, ‘Ceramide’is the main ingredient, ranking fifth among the most searched ingredients on Amorepacific and innisfree. The ‘Ceramide Ato Lotion’ has undergone various tests related to sensitivity, achieving a near-zero irritation index, which has garnered a satisfaction score of 4.8/5 even among customers with sensitive skin. Its clean, fragrance-free formula and gentle application make it an ideal daily moisturizer for the entire family, already ascending to the top ranks⁽¹⁾in body moisturization.

2. Hyaluronic Acid

‘Hyaluronic Acid’ garners the attention of those with dry skin seeking a fundamental solution to continuous internal dryness.It has secured the third spot in interest among people in their twenties, with 20% of the searches conducted by the cohort. A standout product that encapsulates hyaluronic acid in capsules smaller than pores to quickly address dryness is innisfree’s ‘Green Tea Seed Hyaluronic Acid Serum.’

This product tops⁽²⁾ the repurchase rate within the brand and has also achieved a 100%⁽³⁾ satisfaction rate in addressing inner dryness. The synergy between the brand’s unique moisturizing ingredient, ‘Beauty Green Tea,’ and encapsulated hyaluronic acid enhances moisturization and provides rapid soothing care, making it an excellent boosting serum. Its high repurchase rate as a ‘must-have’ and ‘stock-up’ item further indicates its popularity. Additionally, the top five hyaluronic acid product sales belong to innisfree’s Green Tea Seed line, reaffirming ‘Green Tea Seed Hyaluronic Acid’ as the brand’s core identity.

1. Ranked first in purchase frequency within the body moisturization market according to Kantar Panel (January 4, 2021, to January 3, 2022).
2. Based on cumulative purchase amount (%) for Q2 2022-23.
3. The survey results based on user experience conducted by ACORN from May 4 to May 18, 2023 (2 weeks), involving 30 women aged 20-35.

We’ve delved into the cosmetic ingredients that have seized consumers’ attention and identified emerging trends. The adage “ingredient equals choice of cosmetics” has resonated with informed buyers for some time. Whereas the focus once lay on avoiding harmful ingredients, the current trend shifts toward a meticulous study of components⁽⁴⁾, strategizing their application to achieve specific results. The art of curating skincare routines, tailored to individual skin concerns with carefully selected ingredients, has woven itself into the very fabric of our beauty culture. I hope you discover those quintessential ingredients to sustain your optimal skin balance.

4. Referenced from Hwahae 2024 Beauty Trend Report