Editor’s note
What's in my bag? If you look inside, you'll likely find a cushion foundation. It's not just a makeup item; it's a piece of history. The fact that this ubiquitous product has only been around for about 15 years is astonishing. Launched in 2008 by Amorepacific, the original cushion has since revolutionized global base makeup trends.
As you may well know, this innovative product, the cushion foundation, was inspired by parking lot stamps. It was initially conceived from customer feedback that a lightweight lotion combining UV protection and makeup functionality was desired. This unique combination of features has allowed cushion foundations not just to find a place but to carve out a unique niche in the beauty industry. As we enter 2024, it’s intriguing to take a brief look at how cushion foundations are faring through the lens of data, marking a stage of maturity and continued innovation.
#2017~2019
: The Rise of Skincare Brand Cushions
Now, let's delve into the data. Examining the base makeup trends from 2017 to 2019 reveals a common thread despite varying terminologies like MSBB (My Skin But Better)(1), gym skin (healthy, dewy post-workout look)(2), and glow base. The core principle was a ‘natural, healthy, radiant complexion.’
▲IOPE Air Cushion®
▲Sulwhasoo Perfecting Cushion
This trend led to the prominence of cushions from skincare brands such as IOPE and Sulwhasoo, which dominated sales rankings. IOPE’s 'Air Cushion' notably held the top spot within the brand's channels and overall sales for three consecutive years. Dubbed the 'Mirror Ball' cushion, its key ingredient, Air Prism WaterTM, enhanced moisture retention, promoting a dewy and hydrated makeup finish. True to its legacy as the original cushion brand, IOPE maintained its reputation and enjoyed sustained consumer loyalty. Similarly, Sulwhasoo’s 'Perfecting Cushion' leveraged Schizophyllum commune mushroom-derived ingredients for a moisturizing, radiant finish. Its slim-fit, high-coverage formula provided light yet thorough coverage, consistently securing sales ranks 2 to 4 within the brand's channels and overall sales during this period. Both products featured luminous package designs, reflecting the era’s preference for glowing base makeup.
▲HERA UV Mist
Cushion▲HERA Black Cushion
(1st generation)
Significant changes also emerged with HERA's 'UV Mist Cushion' and 'Black Cushion.' The 'UV Mist Cushion,' launched in 2012 as HERA’s first cushion, was a 'multi sun base' product applied easily and lightly, aligning with the cushion's conceptual origin. It integrated the trend of mist-sprayed dewy skin into a cushion format, achieving record sales(3) within four months and hitting 10 billion KRW in just 50 days. Its popularity endured, ranking fourth in sales through 2019.
2017, a legendary item was born: the 'Black Cushion.' This product was pivotal in firmly establishing HERA's brand positioning as a leading makeup brand among consumers.
▲January 10, 2017, Open Survey of Women Aged 20–49 Nationwide
According to a 2017 Open Survey, the desire for dewy-looking skin slightly declined from the previous year, with an increased preference for flawless, blemish-free skin. As products with higher coverage became more trendy, the Black Cushion fittingly met this demand. Contrasting with traditional cushion formulations, it increased the content of ingredients that fixed makeup and added powders to enhance coverage and brightness and improve makeup retention. Launched in six shades, including a pink base, it broadened consumer choices and shifted the perception of cushions from merely touch-up tools to a full-fledged foundation category.
#2020~2022
: The Rise of Matte Cushions Amidst the Pandemic
As we all know, 2020 was a year of unprecedented change due to COVID-19. The beauty market was no exception, and cushion sales declined overall, particularly in duty-free sales. With masks becoming an essential part of daily life, there was a noticeable shift towards matte foundation textures that wouldn’t transfer, leading to a surge in the popularity of matte cushion foundations.
▲innisfree No-Sebum Powder Cushion
/ Peanuts Collaboration Edition▲LANEIGE Neo Cushion Matte
/ Maison Kitsuné Collaboration Edition
In line with this trend, innisfree's 'No-Sebum Powder Cushion' and LANEIGE's 'Neo Cushion Matte' quickly established themselves as core items upon release.
innisfree’s 'No-Sebum Powder Cushion' was a natural extension of the immensely popular 'No-Sebum Mineral Powder,' which had sold around 50 million units. With its triple sebum control powder, the cushion version effectively controlled skin oil while containing water and oil-based particles to achieve a smooth, matte finish. It also passed fine dust adhesion tests, ensuring it wouldn’t transfer onto masks, making it a hit.
Launched in 2020, LANEIGE's 'Neo Cushion' garnered immediate attention with its innovative 360-degree borderless design, pastel-toned packaging, and the easy-to-replace 'One-Touch Spinning Refill' system, resulting in pre-sale sellouts. The matte variant featured ultra-lightweight cover powder, providing thin yet powerful coverage akin to a concealer. Its 'Humid DefenseTM' technology ensured makeup stayed put even in 40-degree sauna conditions, earning it high praise as a mask-proof product. Post-launch, it climbed from fourth to second in overall sales, gradually recognized for its effectiveness.
▲February 1 to April 30, 2022, Deep MiniG’s Internal Analysis, Insight Korea (2022)(4)
According to Insight Korea, design elements (45.3%) significantly influence cushion purchases. Both cushions mentioned above are renowned for their collaboration packages. innisfree’s No-Sebum Powder Cushion saw sales boosts with releases like the Knotted and Peanuts editions, maintaining its rank as third in sales across its channels for two consecutive years since its 2021 launch. Through collaborations with Samsung Electronics, Maison Kitsuné, and artist NOVO, LANEIGE's Neo Cushion received positive feedback for its stylish packaging. Recent collaborations with the BAO Family further stimulated collector interest.
▲HERA NEW Black Cushion
(2nd Generation)▲eSpoir Pro Tailor Be Velvet
Cover Cushion
The expectations for cushion foundations evolved beyond mere non-transferability under masks to include impeccable coverage, adhesion, and retention. Consumers began to trust makeup brand cushions more for their comprehensive performance.
In 2021, HERA introduced the 2nd generation 'NEW Black Cushion,' which offered a thinner formulation but enhanced the core functionalities of retention and adhesion, achieving a natural skin finish. Known as the 'Jennie Cushion' of BLACKPINK, it gained international recognition and has topped overall and brand-specific sales since its upgrade.
Released in 2022, eSpoir’s 'Pro Tailor Be Velvet Cover Cushion' became celebrated for its robust coverage. Incorporating white sapphire powder (ALUMINA), it blends smoothly without caking, promoting the concept of 'semi-matte' to consumers. The cushion's teardrop-shaped, dense puff allowed for precise application even on tricky areas like the sides of the nose, earning widespread acclaim.
#2023~2024
: Expanding Cushion Choices Based on Preferences
With the complete lifting of mask mandates in March 2023, a fascinating coexistence of pre- and post-COVID-19 base makeup trends emerged. Like a balancing act, 'glow makeup vs. matte makeup' seesawed in popularity, even products from the same brand vying for consumer attention.
▲eSpoir Pro Tailor
Be Glow Cushion▲LANEIGE Neo
Cushion Glow
The glow versions of eSpoir's and LANEIGE's matte cushions, the 'Pro Tailor Be Glow Cushion' and 'Neo Cushion Glow,' respectively, have also topped sales charts, reflecting a diversification of preferences akin to "the trend is no trend." These preferences are often influenced by the season and individual tastes. However, regardless of texture or brand, there is a common desire for natural skin tones, making shade 21N the most popular. This shade subtly brightens the complexion while blending seamlessly with other shades, making it a versatile favorite.
Another emerging trend since 2023 is 'conscious beauty,' which emphasizes value-driven consumption. This trend highlights eco-friendly packaging, fair production processes, and broader environmental movements, significantly influencing cushion foundation purchases.
Source: Woman Sense - Conscious Beauty: The Trend of Value-Driven Consumption
Amorepacific has long championed environmental responsibility, offering refillable cushion foundations as a standard lifestyle choice. They also actively collect used plastics from consumers, recycle them into new products, and continuously research sustainable product development. Some current cushion models incorporate PCR(5) (post-consumer recycled) plastic in their outer cases, appealing to consumers keen on reducing plastic use.
▲HERA Black Cushion (3rd Generation)
Amid these trends, the release of HERA's '3rd Generation Black Cushion' in 2024 is noteworthy. For the first time, HERA used plastic pins instead of metal ones for easier recycling and applied PCR plastic to the outer case's bottom for enhanced quality. Despite three redesigns, excluding collaborations with other brands, the packaging has remained essentially unchanged, emphasizing coverage and retention—fundamental makeup values. This approach has resonated with consumers, making it the top choice for those in their 20s to 50s, excluding the 60s demographic, within the brand's channels. This cushion has become a staple for many(6), earning the nickname 'the go-to Black Cushion,' with cumulative sales exceeding 10 million units by February, marking a remarkable achievement as a single-brand product. HERA successfully hosted a pop-up event in Seongsu in April and is now showcasing a mini pop-up exhibition themed 'I CAN GO ANYWHERE' in Shinyongsan, offering an immersive experience with seven themed sound and video displays. These diverse consumer engagement strategies highlight the enduring appeal and pride of the Black Cushion.
5. PCR Plastic: Post-Consumer Recycled Polycarbonate, plastic recycled from materials discarded by end consumers.
6. MONEY TODAY - 'Back to Black Cushion': The Secret Behind Hera's 7-Year Reign at No. 1
Reflecting on the evolution of cushion foundations since 2017 reveals how preferences have shifted and how cushions have transformed. As we move into the latter half of 2024, it remains to be seen whether HERA's Black Cushion will maintain its top position and how cushion foundations will continue to innovate. We hope that the pride of K-beauty, the cushion foundation, remains a constant presence on everyone's vanity, in their bags and pouches.
Data Source Overall Data (Dashboard) / In-House Channel Data (Beauty Point Member Sales Only)
Period January 1, 2017 to June 30, 2024 (Overall Data from January 1, 2019)
Image Source Amore Mall, Official Brand Sites, and Social Media Channels
Data Provided by Amorepacific Data Marketing Team
Production Supervised by Amorepacific Communication Team
All interviews and manuscripts are copyrighted by Amore Stories.
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