2023 Fall / Winter Haute Couture Beauty - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
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2023.07.28
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2023 Fall / Winter Haute Couture Beauty



Haute Couture collections serve as one of the most assertive and audacious platforms for expressing a brand's unique identity. Yet, these collections often bear the reputation of being more spectacle than utility, leading many to view them as runway shows with little relevance to everyday style. Contrary to this perception, Haute Couture plays an essential role in instigating a wave of innovation amidst a fashion market inundated with copycats. These collections not only encapsulate the pulse of contemporary trends but also skillfully interweave the rich heritage of illustrious fashion houses, presenting a proud display of fashion and makeup steeped in tradition. Let's delve into the striking characteristics that emerged from the Fall/Winter 2023 Haute Couture collections.




Women’s Fashion Trend - 2023 F/W Houte Couture

1

Black Spangles



Chanel, Paris

Rahul Mishra, Paris

Stefan Djokovich, Paris

Oriental Fashion Show, Paris



Traditionally synonymous with opulence, black spangles have often graced the year-end fashion scene. However, this season, they served a new purpose: to exude a vibe of simple and classic elegance. Bodysuits, dresses, and one-pieces adorned with black spangles created a distinctive aura, breaking free from conventional silhouette and length constraints. Chanel, the epitome of classic and modern fashion, unveiled its collection on the La Confluence pier on the Seine River, with the iconic Eiffel Tower providing a captivating backdrop. Chanel's creative director, Virginie Viard, drew inspiration from the French girl who embodies an “indescribable charm” to design this collection. Viard skillfully sidestepped complex motifs and artifices by incorporating a simple, classic style that focuses on what she wears, reads, and thinks and her approach to life. The result was an ankle-length black jacket dress wholly veiled in black spangles, successfully blending classicism with bohemian aesthetics and manifesting the allure of contemporary Haute Couture.




2

Cut Out Maxi Dress



Fovari, Paris

Georges Chakra, Paris

Giambattista Valli, Paris

Zuhair Murad, Paris



When one ponders Haute Couture, words like ‘bespoke’ and ‘artistry’ quickly spring to mind, setting Haute Couture apart from standard attire. Embodying this ethos, this collection turned heads with a maxi dress that elegantly bared the shoulder and daringly plunged to the collarbone. In stark contrast to the continuity of fabric in a column dress extending from neckline to toes, this cut-out maxi dress introduced an air of sophistication and sensuality by revealing one thigh. Through a careful process of elimination, removing structural and lining elements, the dress conveyed a streamlined, asymmetrical silhouette.




Women’s Beauty Trend - 2023 F/W Haute Couture

1

No Makeup Make-up



Gaurav Gupta, Paris

Giambattista Valli,Paris

Ashi Studio, Paris



Moving beyond the realm of ‘ethereal beauty,’ a term used to depict unadulterated allure, the present collection unveiled a ‘no-makeup’ aesthetic, imparting a sense of translucency, as if light were seamlessly filtering through the skin. Showcasing neat, all-back hairstyles, this aesthetic eliminated superfluous components, coupled with skin makeup that gracefully refrained from entirely disguising the natural contours and shading of the skin. The mood board for the Giambattista Valli collection ingeniously juxtaposed vintage archive photographs from 1950s ateliers with modern imagery, thereby embodying the perennial values of haute couture. Sparse filling of eyebrows, an essential part of constructing a classic nude makeup look, was achieved using a spoolie brush to neatly arrange the brow hairs from the inner corner to the outer edge. Shades like rosewood were delicately dabbed onto eyelids and lips, harmonizing with the skin's intrinsic tone.

Elie Saab, Paris

Achieving the ‘barely treated’ transparent skin aesthetic necessitates meticulous attention starting from the skincare regimen. Given the sparing use of foundation, it's critical to maintain the skin in a state of optimal hydration. Subsequently, a water-based, pearl-free transparent base is evenly applied across the face. Employing the hands, this base is thoroughly blended over the forehead, nose bridge, cheekbones, and chin, where light reflection is most pronounced. Following this, a minute quantity of a color-correcting concealer or a lightweight glow foundation is applied to areas needing coverage. The use of hands is advocated over a sponge, as the latter could absorb the product's moisture content.




2

Mascara More Mascara



Zuhair Murad, Paris

Alexis Mabille, Paris

Georges Hobeika, Paris



In the realm of physical appearances, eyelashes undeniably play a pivotal role in highlighting gender differences. The essential femininity and enticing allure emanating from lengthy, voluminous lashes constitute a cornerstone of makeup artistry. Many artists adamantly emphasize mascara as a non-negotiable step. This perspective is seamlessly echoed in Zuhair Murad's collection, which channels an overarching gothic vibe. The eye makeup distinctly emphasizes each lash, reminiscent of the pointed spires and towering heights intrinsic to Gothic architecture.

Alexis Mabille, paris

In stark contrast, the Alexis Mabille collection, following a ‘color addict’ theme, parades ensembles in saturated hues of gold, green, and orange-red, while the eye makeup strikes a discordant note, enacted purely in monochromatic black, devoid of any gradient. For those with shorter or less dense lashes, a lash base infused with microfibers can amplify both length and volume. Subsequent application of volumizing mascara, employing a vertical movement for clumping the lashes, followed by a zigzag sweep from root to tip, can create a vivid and well-defined look.




3

Soft Semi Smokey Eye Makeup



Chanel, Paris

Valeriya, Paris

Fendi, Paris



The Chanel collection embodies a captivating mood intrinsic to France, underscoring the notion of ‘contrast and balance.’ In perfect harmony with the overall collection's keynote, the semi-smokey eye makeup, which adeptly balances the upper and lower eye regions, seemingly represents women of resolute confidence and audacious character. This look is accomplished by expertly blending warm, soft brown, and rose brown base shades, thus creating a semi-smokey effect that exudes darkness without compromising femininity.

Georges Hobeika, Paris

In the Fendi collection, ruby, sapphire, and the restrained elegance of nude tones take center stage, mirroring the eye makeup approach. The technique of color concentration on the anterior and posterior portions of the eyes to elicit a semi-circular, three-dimensional effect is noteworthy. Complementing the ensemble concept that merges hardness and softness, the strategy of employing reddish-brown hues on both the eyelids and under-eyes to enhance eye length emerged as a significant element.




4

Negative Space Eyeliner



ArdAzAei, paris

Aelis, Paris

Rvdk Ronald Van Kemp, Paris



The appeal of graphic liners, birthed from the Euphoria eye makeup trend, is still strong. A distinguishing attribute of the graphic liners in this collection was their artful incorporation of ‘negative space.’ While the 2022 Fall Haute Couture collection gravitated towards eye makeup that filled the spaces between the curvatures, this season opted for a bolder approach, sketching linear elements on the eyelids in the area between the eyes and eyebrows. Despite maintaining a unifying color theme in black, the interplay of curves and straight lines, and the double liner interspersed between the eyeliner and the eyelid liner, added a striking dimension to the eye makeup.

ArdAzAei, paris

Aelis's designer, Sofia Crociani, presented a collection that further elevated the versatility of graphic liner by pairing it with a black cashmere coat outlined in gold and silver. The graphic liner, which should commence from the negative space rather than tracing the eye's contour, can be shaped more effortlessly if sketched first with an eyeliner pencil. By layering liquid liners on top to modulate color intensity, one can achieve a graphic eyeliner look that is both pristine and potent.




5

Overload Blushes



Charles De Vilmorin, Paris

Juana Martín, Paris

Georges Hobeika, Paris



Departing from the past few years' reigning trends of highlighter and bronzer, the present season unequivocally accentuates the vividness of the cheeks in facial makeup. As cheeks typically bear the most color, the richness of the hue is immediately discernible. Excessive application, however, can result in a jarring ‘tone catastrophe’ or inadvertently age the appearance. Thus, it was customary to create a seamless blend without noticeable demarcations. In contrast, current couture makeup techniques underscore the art of cheek enhancement, achieved by harmoniously blending blush from the face's midpoint up to the cheekbones.

Georges Hobeika, Paris

The intensity of eye and lip color is suitably reduced to prevent overburdening the makeup look. For blush color, a subtly brown-infused coral rose shade is utilized, adding a layer of depth to the face's contours.




6

Silver Cubic Hair Piece



Jean Paul Gaultier, Paris

Valentino, Paris

Juana Martin, Paris



Hair styling now captures attention with the striking variety of silver cubic hair embellishments. These uniformly arranged cubic details skillfully enrich the collection's underlying themes of elegance and sophistication.

Patou, Paris

Julien Dossena, Jean Paul Gaultier's creative director, echoes Parisian neoclassical style with jeweled crowns and hair bands. Meanwhile, Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative mind behind Valentino, exhibits controlled refinement by scaling down hair volume via the irregular structure of silver hair chains. Inspired by the Spanish aesthetic movement, Juana Martin's collection underlines the use of hairpieces adorned with shimmering silver sequins.




※The Makeup Professionals Team (Hera division) collected and analyzed the makeup trend keywords used in this column, which they selected from among the makeup looks seen in numerous design collections.
※Written by : Cha Min-kyung, Makeup Professionals Team
※Images courtesy : http://spotlight.launchmetrics.com
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