#Trend Column
2022.06.17
2022 Fall Backstage Beauty Trend _ Inspiration#2 Euphoria Makeup
< Gen-Z’s way of expressing themselves: A new take on backstage makeup >
Fancy glitter, sparkling makeup, neon point, angel-winged eyes … These were the keywords newly introduced to this F/W Season’s runway. Bold and dazzling eye makeup, even in the eyes of a makeup artist, filled the stages this season, and it doesn’t take one long to realize that these makeup styles mimic those portrayed in the HBO series Euphoria that aired this February, just before the Big Four fashion weeks opened (from mid-February to early-March).
Ever since Euphoria Season 1 aired in 2019, the one-of-a-kind makeup styles enjoyed by Gen-Z girls started drawing attention from domestic and international experts as well as makeup professionals. The series became even more popular after its second season aired recently, almost to the extent that the makeup styles are becoming a social phenomenon, especially in the West. For the 2022 F/W collection, many makeup artists actually opted for the bold, eye-catching teenager looks inspired by the series.
A large proportion of articles or social media posts on Euphoria cover stories about the makeup styles or the makeup artist, ‘Doniella Davy.’ According to the interviews, she comes up with makeup ideas in the series on the basis of the state of emotions that the teenage girl characters experience.
In the series, the makeup looks worn at parties are more colorful and bolder, whereas the makeup looks worn on a more daily basis are unique to a certain extent yet wearable and inspiring. These have surely influenced Zoomers, who refuse to follow a set trend, to pursue statement makeup styles that can help them express themselves.
In the series, the makeup looks worn at parties are more colorful and bolder, whereas the makeup looks worn on a more daily basis are unique to a certain extent yet wearable and inspiring. These have surely influenced Zoomers, who refuse to follow a set trend, to pursue statement makeup styles that can help them express themselves.
In this volume of makeup artist column, we are going to take a look at the fascinating changes that took place in the 2022 F/W season’s runway makeup styles, how they were inspired by Euphoria, how to mimic those styles, and the kind of attitude to wear with them.
#Finger painted Glitters
Marrisa Wilson, NY
Diesel, Milan
Peien, Tokyo
Who knew that eye shadow applied with the fingers could look so stylish? This is especially so when applying glitter with large sparkles because if you apply it too precisely, it may make your look too intense or kitschy. Just apply it half-heartedly, or even randomly, like in the runway photos above. The left and right don’t even have to be symmetrical. To make the glitter stay on better, lightly spray a mist before putting it on. To make the glitter look denser, as if it were hand-painted, put on some lip balm or lotion on your fingers before touching the glitter for a thicker, finger-marked look.
In the actual series, the glitter makeup worn by Rue, the main character, is quite symbolic. She often puts on gunmetal-color glitter under the eye rather heavily, so that the glitter shines even in the dark. Remember to use an eyeliner with light-colored glitter as the glitter alone could make your eyes look puffy.
Image by: HBO.com
#Angel-winged Eyes
Paul Costelloe, London
Francesca Liberatore, Milan
Paris Street, ‘22 F/W
Scattered gems and boldly, widely applied eyeshadow or eyeliner together create an elegant yet girly vibe and were seen everywhere on this season’s runways. This particular style of Euphoria makeup is noticeable on the streets as well. As can be seen in the top right street photo, in this season is the angel-winged eye makeup, defined by winged eyeliner and rhinestones of different sizes. Fill the outline of the eyes and the eyelids densely, or outline the eye rather sparsely with a variety of rhinestones.
In the series, Cassie applies more wearable makeup. She puts on sparkly angel-winged makeup with casual outfits on her way to the mart. Because her character enjoys tight or revealing outfits, her makeup is often sensual to match the look. But her look is never too much. It’s unique and actually quite adorable.
Her makeup style, which goes well with casual outfits more so than with glamorous, chic ones, can be easily mimicked with subtly placed rhinestones. Read the last chapter of this column for some tips.
#Another Material
Giambattista Valli, Paris
Backstage makeup looks often use a combination of different materials. In this season, the materials that stood out the most were feathers put on the eyelashes, and eyeliners that were combined with fabric, threads, and holographic films. The makeup on the Giambattista Valli runway was minimal yet futuristic, matched with outfits reminiscent of the 60s and styled with wet hair for a sophisticated vibe.
The makeup Jules wears changes every episode, and it’s quite fun to follow these changes from a makeup artist’s point of view. The film that was attached at the front of the eye was eye-catching, to say the least. The film must have been something flexible and light to make sure it stays on with all the eye movements. It was captivating to see the colors reflected with the change in angle and the movements of the eye. For a more wearable look, go for a simpler color and a subtler application.
#60’s Mod Graphic Eyeliner
Emporio Armani, Milan
Andreādamo, Milan
The newly coined word of the year is ‘modisumer,’ a combination of the words ‘modify’ and ‘consumer.’ The word refers to consumers who make up their own recipes and enjoy products through a creative process. This trend in consumption was also seen in the backstage areas and in Euphoria: re-creating the retro look with a unique touch. The wide and defined eyeliner that stretches to the hairline seems to be reminiscent of the literal meaning of euphoria: maximized pleasure.
Graphic eyeliners were a trend on the F/W runway in 2016. Six years later, it is ironically combined with the Y2K makeup, bolder and bigger than ever. A black eyeliner is used to follow the natural upward curve of the eye as if to draw a pattern. The defined eyeliner makeup is in stark contrast to, but somehow balances with, the so-called soap eyebrows, a natural eyebrow makeup technique that focuses on merely filling in the gaps for brushed-up brows.
Graphic eyeliners were a trend on the F/W runway in 2016. Six years later, it is ironically combined with the Y2K makeup, bolder and bigger than ever. A black eyeliner is used to follow the natural upward curve of the eye as if to draw a pattern. The defined eyeliner makeup is in stark contrast to, but somehow balances with, the so-called soap eyebrows, a natural eyebrow makeup technique that focuses on merely filling in the gaps for brushed-up brows.
The Y2K trend is everywhere: in Euphoria through makeup and nails, in the Emporio Armani collection through makeup and outfits, and in the Andreādamo collection through the matchy-matchy makeup that matches the model’s skin tone and the color of the outfit.
Pair your bold eye makeup with a silky, matte foundation with a powdery yet gently glowing finish that evens out the tone of your face for a refined look.
#How to use rhinestones
- For Eyes
Koché, Paris
Capasa Milano, Milan
Rhinestone eye makeup is not new. These sparkly additions to your makeup are called by different names: parts, glitter, gemstones, or cubics. They are rarely left out in backstage makeup, but especially so in this season’s collection in the form of subtle, daily, and casual glitter makeup. In the past, glitter was concentrated around the eyes to add splendor. However, in this season, it is part of a minimalistic look that blends in with the shape of the overall face. Even-tone skin makeup is particularly important with sparkly glitter because it reflects the light. Use a silky, matte finish skin makeup product for a shimmery look to prevent the skin from looking blotchy and maximize the glow.
- For Lips
Koché, Paris
Koché, Paris
Capasa Milano, Milan
Glitter is not just used on the eyes. It can be put on the lips as well, and when it is, the nude pink lips add a mystical vibe to the look.
In the Koché collection, high-saturation, large-sized cubics were placed on the lips in the shape of a 'Y' instead of lipstick, making the face look slimmer by drawing the attention to the chin. In the Capasa Milano collection, relatively large-grained glitter was applied irregularly and seemingly half-heartedly. There are many cubic stickers available on the market, but you can also use the glitter parts in your nail polish or liquid glitter eyeshadows. Simply put and fix them on the lips.
These types of glitter on the lips are a must try for summer festivals or parties for any trend follower.
From a makeup artist’s point of view, the makeup styles portrayed in Euphoria were fascinating, which is what made writing this trend column much more enjoyable. The different makeup looks from the different scenes in the series seemed to tell us that there is not a dull moment in life, whether that un-dullness is caused by joy or difficulty. This inspiring process was a reminder that makeup styles are a way of delivering the emotions of characters.
In the Koché collection, high-saturation, large-sized cubics were placed on the lips in the shape of a 'Y' instead of lipstick, making the face look slimmer by drawing the attention to the chin. In the Capasa Milano collection, relatively large-grained glitter was applied irregularly and seemingly half-heartedly. There are many cubic stickers available on the market, but you can also use the glitter parts in your nail polish or liquid glitter eyeshadows. Simply put and fix them on the lips.
These types of glitter on the lips are a must try for summer festivals or parties for any trend follower.
From a makeup artist’s point of view, the makeup styles portrayed in Euphoria were fascinating, which is what made writing this trend column much more enjoyable. The different makeup looks from the different scenes in the series seemed to tell us that there is not a dull moment in life, whether that un-dullness is caused by joy or difficulty. This inspiring process was a reminder that makeup styles are a way of delivering the emotions of characters.
※ The Makeup Professionals Team (Hera division) collected and analyzed the makeup trend keywords used in this column, which they selected from among the makeup looks seen in numerous design collections.
※ Written by : Yoon Kyung-soo, Cha Min-kyung, Makeup Professionals Team
※ Images courtesy of imaxtree.com
※ Written by : Yoon Kyung-soo, Cha Min-kyung, Makeup Professionals Team
※ Images courtesy of imaxtree.com
-
Like
3 -
Recommend
0 -
Thumbs up
3 -
Supporting
0 -
Want follow-up article
0
