2024 S/S Haute Couture: Has Makeup Surpassed Fashion? What Happened? - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
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2024.02.23
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2024 S/S Haute Couture: Has Makeup Surpassed Fashion? What Happened?

Editor’s note


Perhaps it's the elusive allure and distinctive approach to Haute Couture makeup that, while seemingly familiar, always manages to surprise with a distinct 2% difference. The joy lies in observing makeup looks that are, at times, strikingly unique, offering a glimpse into the creative processes that result in similar outcomes through varied products and applications. This column aims to introduce makeup looks that, while continuing trends display subtle yet significant deviations from previous season collections.

 

 

 

 

Haute Couture

2024 S/S

 

비디오영역

 

 

 

1. Blurry Glass Skin


Chanel, Paris

Gaurav Gupta, Paris

Ashi Studio, Paris

 

 

Radiance serves as a barometer for skin health. Indeed, a certain level of skin coverage is necessary to achieve this glow, but this collection has universally eschewed heavy coverage in favor of layering on a sheen. A notable feature is the focus on the apple zone, extending from the dark circles under the eyes to the cheekbones. Chanel's collection, under Virginie Viard, received accolades for elevating the ballet core trend of 2023, selecting a watercolor blend of pinks and whites on the skin to accompany the fashion. This approach favors a natural glow over flawless coverage, revealing a frosted white appearance as the skin's inner and outer hydration reflects light, accentuating facial contours. The look subtly incorporates muted pink tones across lips, cheeks, and eyeshadows, achieving a 'maxy glow hydrating skin' effect. HERA’s 'Comfy Spreader' can enhance the skin's natural radiance, creating a soft, blurry glass skin effect for those seeking to replicate this look. Incorporating a fixer enriched with skincare ingredients at each step ensures a cohesive application, providing a healthy overall appearance. This approach was prevalent during a makeup class in Nagoya, Japan, where 80% of clients sought a moisturized skin effect, prompting questions about achieving such a hydrated yet covered look. Glossy skin can maximize texture expression depending on how the same product is used at different stages, so it's recommended to know your skin type and vary the order of makeup application accordingly. The overall look was achieved by dabbing a color lip balm used on the eyes and cheeks with a foundation-laden brush, spreading a pinkish hue across the entire face.

 

 

 

2. Dynamic Color Combinations


Giorgio Armani Privé, Paris

Imane Ayissi, Paris

Maison Margiela, Paris
(*Source : Pat McGrath 인스타그램)

 

 

In stark contrast to natural makeup, the season also unveiled dynamic color combinations that boldly emphasize complementary contrasts, adhering faithfully to every aspect of makeup. Indeed, the experimental and unconventional makeup attempts stand out in this S/S collection compared to previous ones. Notably, Maison Margiela's latest collection caused a greater stir with its makeup than with its fashion. The visual of wax doll-like figures, blended with the concept of translucent PVC outfits and backgrounds, emitted a synergistic artistic aura. The impact was so profound that social media saw an influx of various remade videos. McGrath's sensuous makeup elevated creative director John Galliano's conceptual designs to a new dimension, which underscores the need to develop new materials and techniques continuously. This groundbreaking makeup utilized peel-off masks and an airbrushed clear gloss solution, applied lastly for a porcelain-like skin finish. A wax doll skin effect was achieved by layering gloss where shine was most needed. Using distinct colors such as gray, burnt orange, and teal added a dramatic, almost inhuman element to the look.

These innovative techniques were shared by Pat McGrath during an Instagram live master class on February 2 at 05:00 (KST), demonstrating tremendous courage in revealing personal makeup tips to a global audience. This interaction between makeup artists and the international community via social media underscores the increasing diversity in makeup artistry.

 

 

Pat McGrath Makeup Class Video

Makeup Pro Team Glass skin Shorts Video

 

 

 

 

3. Underline Emphasis


Christian Dior, Paris

Franck Sorbier, Paris

Rvdk Ronald Van Der Kemp, Paris

 

 

The latest collection emphasizes arch-shaped eyebrows and smoky underlines catching the eye, which marks a departure from traditional smoky eye makeup. Have you noticed the difference? It lies in the inversion of shading—whereas the conventional semi-smoky makeup adds a shadow to the eyelid and leaves the lower part merely outlined; this time, the upper part of the eye is kept clean with powder to control oiliness, and the underline is emphasized. Peter Philips, the creative and image director for Dior makeup, reportedly focused on enhancing the lower lash line with smoky eyeliner and adding light colors to the eyelids for an intense yet soft eye makeup look. Using a crayon kohl liner pencil and blending with the darkest chocolate brown or charcoal black colors fortifies the eyeliner and softens the smoky eye makeup. Care must be taken to prevent the blending area from smudging too much, as it could grotesquely distort the look. Contrary to the glossy expressions previously mentioned, the underline emphasis look demonstrates a fully covered skin. In makeup requiring a rich palette and intensity, the skin's coverage can significantly affect the makeup look's finish, so using a covering product like eSpoir's 'Taping Concealer Longwear' to prevent the skin from appearing patchy is critical. The lip color, a muted coral pink, was chosen to balance the makeup without being dominated by personal color, aiming for the most natural-looking lips. This ideal, naturally-colored lip brightens the appearance while focusing attention on the eye makeup.

 

 

 

4. Lavender Color On Eyes


Julien Fournié, Paris

Georges Chakra, Paris

Juana Martín, Paris

 

 

Just as spring blooms with lively and bright lavender, this color easily evokes the season's essence. Juana Martín's latest collection, inspired by the spring of Andalusia, chose fluid fabrics and lace, not sharp and inclusive materials. Drawing inspiration from morning dew, evening light, the colors of flowers, and late sunsets, this thematic inspiration extends to makeup. Three brands commonly utilized lavender eyeshadow as a focal point, applying it in gradients rather than covering the upper and lower parts of the eyes entirely. Applying purple shadow across the entire eyelid can risk appearing bland or tacky; however, using a highlighter balm with silver glitter material can make the eyes appear more open, as the glitter particles reflect light. Additionally, applying eyeliner at the ends of the eyes and extending the wing line along the lashes, coupled with the color gradient, build up the sharpness of the eye makeup layer by layer.

 

 

 

Written by

Lee Jin-su, Cha Min-kyung Makeup Professionals Team

The Makeup Professionals Team (HERA division) collected and analyzed the makeup trend keywords used in this column, which they selected from among the makeup looks seen in numerous design collections.

Image courtesy
spotlight.launchmetrics.com
www.instagram.com/patmcgrathreal/
www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rbx-nKvMiIY

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