1. No More Color

Chloé collection featured a luxurious resort lineup highlighted by neutral tones of black, navy, and ecru. The makeup was soft and minimalistic with very little color, finished with a matte, feminine touch of pink and ivory, reminiscent of the brand’s image. The natural flush of lips was also drastically subdued for a clean and rather pale look.

Etro’s collection was everything minimalistic: solid-colored maxi dresses and linear silhouettes that were everything; the geometric logo patterns, typical of Etro, were also minimized. The overall aesthetic was complemented by hairstyles and makeup with a psychedelic vibe. Similar to Chloé, the makeup featured a barely-there look with minimal skin coverage and color. These days, natural makeup is often seen as a sign of sophistication, to the point where wearing makeup at all, however little, is considered a virtue. Looks with minimal or no makeup, or even forgoing eyebrow makeup, can exude a kitschier and more rebellious vibe.

In Erdem’s collection, a light base and an absence of natural flush emphasized smooth skin and a translucent tone. A common theme among these three collections is achieving a matte yet perfectly dewy finish, creating the illusion of almost zero makeup. When opting for minimal use of color products in makeup, it’s recommended to use a nude-toned loose powder that’s finely milled instead of a white setting powder. Nude-toned loose powder with a slight moisture content in the powder itself can help conceal wrinkles and prevent dryness while leaving a natural glow so that your face doesn’t look overly made up.

2. Perfect Clean Makeup

Reducing the use of color and achieving a pure, healthy appearance was a recurring theme in this season’s collections. Prevailing on the runway was old-money and clean makeup that was not overly pale, often relying on a pinch of tone-up sunscreen and concealer in place of foundation.

In the Jil Sander collection, intricately tailored garments in bold colors like white, lilac, metallic silver, and bright yellow were paired with subtle makeup, where instead of eyeliner, a soft contouring is applied to the entire eye socket. Ivory eyeshadow with a hint of a pinkish hue similar to the natural skin tone was gently smudged across the entire eye area, as if to create a faint shadow.

The Gabriela Hearst collection was lauded as being low-key luxury, featuring monochromatic garments in colors like white, black, and gray. As for makeup, shades of soft brown were used to slightly contour and highlight the facial curves and edges, with a subtle touch of color being added to the lips, adding a minimal complexion to the overall look.

Incorporating skincare products rich in ingredients, like caffeine to reduce puffiness and hyaluronic acid to replenish moisture, into your daily routine can help get that clean makeup look that appears radiant from within. Using a skincare-infused foundation can also be another effective way to keep the skin healthy even with makeup.

3. Glow Up Makeup

Sébastien Meyer, the Creative Director behind the French luxury brand Coperni, presented glowy makeup looks that rolled radiantly along the face like beads of glass, matched with jumpsuits and cropped blazers. Similarly, the Zuhair Murad collection featured a makeup style that was paired with off-the-shoulder bohemian dresses in yellow, with contours and highlights on flawlessly coated skin, making the makeup appear even more dimensional. It combines the elements of glossy shine and brown-toned contouring on top of cleanly finished skin described earlier, viewed as an upgraded version of the ongoing trend known as “glazed donut skin” or “glassy skin.”

Diesel, which has made such a successful a comeback that its ‘D’ symbol is now everywhere, emphasized the importance of sustainability in its collection. According to the brand, approximately 70% of all its denim is produced through sustainable processes. The glow-up makeup seen in this season’s collection evoked a sense of futurism enhanced by the silvery and pearl-like transparency, creating the ideal combination of apparel and makeup.

To maintain a radiant glow on the facial skin, start with hydration. The easiest way is by generously applying skincare products on the entire body so that all parts of the body are deeply moisturized. Put on moisturizing products from head to toe immediately after you come out of the shower, paying special attention to dry areas. Once the skin is prepared, apply a moisturizing sunscreen or base and gently pat a glow foundation onto the face to ensure it sticks perfectly. Next, use a lip sleeping mask or transparent lip gloss on the areas of your face where light hits first, such as the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, cupid’s bow, chin, and other curved areas. Applying a thin layer of the products helps maintain moisture and radiance from both the inside and outside layers of the skin.

4. Coral Brown Everywhere

For Chanel, Los Angeles was undoubtedly a great place to showcase its resorts collection. The opening of the largest Chanel store in the United States in Beverly Hills demonstrated the deep connection between Chanel and LA. It is said that Virginie Viard, Chanel’s Creative Director, drew inspiration from iconic LA locations for the collection. As seen in the video above, sportiness now represents the most exclusive looks in Chanel’s resorts collections. In addition to the brand’s signature white and black, the harmonious blend of coral pink and gold hues are evocative of the colors of California. The cheek makeup, applied diagonally in coral-brown to add a dynamic and sophisticated vibe, screams natural, resembling the healthy glow that is gained from working out outdoors. Eyeliners were applied precisely on the waterline only on the upper and lower eyelids to add clarity and vitality to the eyes.

The Burberry collection, too, drew attention as Creative Director Daniel Lee transformed the brand’s deeply ingrained vertical and horizontal plaid pattern into an iconic reinterpretation. The collection featured armor-shaped earrings resembling medieval helmets and shields, along with slightly lighter, coral-brown cheeks applied diagonally for a more chiseled face. The gentle coral-brown theme was used consistently, and quite daringly in particular on the waterline to highlight the eyes. The look was completed with smudged lips with boundaries being subtly blurred in peach-orange.

La DoubleJ confessed that the fashion house focused on pursuing a retro style and a vibrant bohemian look to constantly bring joy to the audience through their apparel. The brand’s makeup featured a style with a fully lined waterline, allowing for the most vivid colors to shine through. Coral-orange-brown hues were used mainly across the eyes, cheeks, and lips for well-blended mono-tone makeup styles throughout.

5. Red Pout

Colorful, bold lip makeup has always been a staple in the beauty repertoire of fall/winter collections, but this time there’s a notable difference: the color is confined to shades of red. During the pandemic, the lip color trend, often regarded as representation of self-expression, shifted from relatively daring hues to autumn-like shades, such as burgundy, red, and scarlet.

Another common element in the collections of Rosie Assoulin, Carolina Herrera, and Lela Rose is the hairstyle. Sleek and polished updos were seen in all three collections, styled to complement and draw the attention to the fully colored, out-curved lips, where color was most pronounced. This emphasis-on-a-single-feature type of makeup on healthy and clear skin helped enhance the sense of classic beauty.

This season, glamorous and resort-appropriate makeup often seen in resort collections was replaced with more refined and minimalistic elements that primarily emphasized a single facial feature.