Dessert Art : Taking Sweetness to a New Level - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
#Yvonne Chan
2016.10.24
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Dessert Art : Taking Sweetness to a New Level

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Columns from AMOREPACIFIC global offices

Dessert Art : Taking Sweetness
to a New Level

WRITER
Yvonne Chan
(AP Hong Kong)

It is time for another round of discovering Hong Kong! As a dessert-lover, I want to introduce two lesser-known desserteries for all those who have a sweet tooth and want to try something new! Both places combine art and food into one, and revolutionize how dessert can be made through innovative molecular gastronomy. Stay tuned for some unbelievable creations!

Have you ever imagined desserts as artwork? In which different types of ingredients act as different texture? If you come to ZUC.CCH.ERO, you'll discover that food can definitely be a form of art. Restaurant name derives from Italian word for sugar (zucchero), symbolizing the transformation of sugar into different forms of art.

Upon entering this small restaurant, you'll find yourself in a cozy atmosphere with a long wooden bar table and simplistic decorations. The restaurant can fit about 12 people, so make sure you make a reservation if you don't want to wait in line. The dessert menu includes a pictorial insert that features the popular dishes, very helpful for those who have never visited the place. In addition to the dozens of sweet bites, they offer different kind of drinks, and you can get a discounted price for ordering a dessert plus a drink.

The dessert that got the place famous is "Break the Tear" (being featured on The INSIDER (click) online entertainment news) – a beautiful azure blue color tear drop with a mixture of ice cream, walnut and hazelnut crumbles inside. The "tear" is made through pulled sugar technique; upon lightly knocking your cutlery on the structure, and it'll shatter into artful pieces. Smoke trapped inside will disperse to create a mythical moment. Once you've cracked open the candied shell, you'll find a combination of flavors: celery ice, Gorgonzola ice cream, walnut chunks, hazelnut crumbles and port wine sauce drizzled over the cluster. The refreshing taste of celery combined with the heavier blue cheese is something I have not tried before! The nuts added to the mix of consistency and everything meshes well. Definitely worth a try if you are looking for a brand new dessert experience.

Before and After "Breaking" the Tear

The second dish I tried was the "Rolex Ball" – a glittery orange globe similar to Break the Tear's outer shell. However, to create a more visually enticing experiencing, the server will first spray small amount of Vodka on top of the sphere, then lit it up for a smoked tasting of the candy. When cracked open, you will immediately smell the sweet mango flavor. The inside paste derives from a Cantonese dessert called "楊枝甘露" (Mango Pomelo Sago), which is a mixture of sweet mango juice with mango chunks, Pomelo strips and sago. For ZUC.CCH.ERO's rendition, they further added in evaporated milk ice cream to make the flavors more complex. You can relish the sweetness from mango, sourness from pomelo, chilled sensation from ice cream and chewiness from sago all in one bite!

Rolex Ball in Flames and After Broken Open

Last up, we tried the picturesque dessert – "Para Para Sakura" (which is borrowed from the name of a popular Hong Kong romantic movie in 2001). Everyone took out their camera when the plate landed our table. The pink puffy cotton candy on top of the milk chocolate tree trunks, along with the pink crumbled earth, the presentation is very eye-catching. The "earth" is made out of raspberry jelly, Gianduja mousse chunks and chocolate cake. The tanginess from raspberry balanced out the sugary chocolate and strong hazelnut elements. They even added some small bean sprouts on the Sakura petal terrain to beautify the overall scenery.
  • Creating the Sakura Tree

  • Para Para Sakura

Overall, this place surprises us with not just creativity with the crafting of the dessert, but also with the taste and texture of the dishes. I look forward to coming back and trying out other works of theirs!
802-3, Bartlock Centre, 3 Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
https://www.facebook.com/zuc.cch.ero
Next up, we have ATUM Desserant – a place where art and dessert truly become one. I first heard of this place when I read about the growing trend of Improvisational Cuisine in the world. Some pointed out that ATUM Desserant's concept probably inspired from Chicago's famous Alinea Restaurant and The Madarin Oriental Hong Kong's Krug Room. ATUM stands for "creation" in ancient Egyptian language, very fitting to the theme of this dessert lab!

Upon entering the restaurant, you'll be greeted by a large open kitchen with chefs creating art for their respective customers who are sitting behind the white marble bar. In order to enjoy the renowned improvisation dish, you'll have to be seated at the high table. A chef will then greet you and let you know he/she will be the designated chef serving you that day. The menu denotes 9 types of dessert to choose from, from Lemon Coffee to 80% Chocolate to Bamboo Charcoal, there are bound to be something you have yet to try. If none of those suits your taste buds, then Improvisation shall be the winner!
  • "Improvisation"

Before the chef starts creating the one-of-a-kind dessert, he/she will ask you to choose the background color of the mat (black or white) and for personal preferences on flavors and painting style (more sour or sweet, food you prefer/dislike, shapes or styles you prefer). They are patient and willing to explain if you have any questions regarding the ingredients used.

The dessert itself is majorly composed of a few set elements: flavored jelly cubes, liquid nitrogen sorbet, meringue, sauce, whipped cream, mousse, shaved ice and fruits. The chef will start off with the basis of the work by creating the image structure by drawing lines/patterns with the sauce. Then, he will slowly add on the bigger chunks of colors and texture. Meanwhile, the chef will hand you some bite-sized sampling of the elements he/she is using to beautify the work. You can also request to add words/sentences on the mat if you are commemorating a meaningful day with loved ones.
  • Texture is everything

Making the liquid nitrogen sorbet marks the last step of completing the art. You will watch the chef pour the liquid into the sorbet ingredients (flavor of your choice), after some vigorous mixing and outpouring mystical nitrogen from all directions, a piece of hardened sorbet will be added as the center piece of the whole artwork.
  • Here comes the Sorbet! (and the mystical haze)

Without a doubt, you are going to take a few minutes trying to capture this breathtaking scene – fairy like meteor sitting amongst colorful stardust, but don't take too long because the sorbet will start melting! We had a pleasant time witnessing a blank canvas transform into an edible and uniquely ours piece of art, and find it as a memorable way to celebrate a special day.
  • Every piece of "Improvisation" is unique, just like you!

16/F, The L. Square,
No. 459-461 Lockhart Road Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
http://www.atumhk.com/

※ p.s. Similar to ZUC.CCH.ERO, the seating area is quite small, so making a reservation before hand is strongly recommended!
There are more creative eateries emerging from here and there, so definitely give these small stores a try when you have a chance! You'll discover that there is so much more a piece of ordinary ingredient can turn into. That's what I have to share for now, have a sweet autumn season and see you next time!

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