Chapter 4. Desire for Beauty Hidden Under the Veil - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
#Chris Kim
2017.08.16
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Chapter 4. Desire for Beauty Hidden Under the Veil

Columns written by member of Amorepacific Group

ColumnistChris Kim
AP Group Middle East Office

 As-salamu alaykum ("Peace be upon you" in Arabic).

 Summer is nearly over in Dubai. It's hot in summer and, yes, it also gets cold in the winter. Seasons are not as profound as in Korea, but summer is very hot, while winter is only warm, and certainly less hot. The temperature reached 46°C today. Soon, it will go above 50°C. Today, I will talk about the beauty of the Middle East.

The Beauty Market in the Middle East

 The biggest reason behind the rush of Koreans and global companies into the Middle East is the region's wealth. High GDP based on oil exportation drives generous consumption. But, not all countries in the Middle East are blessed with oil; only a few countries in the Gulf Coast have it. In 2014, UAE and Kuwait had GDP per capita of USD 45,000, Saudi Arabia had GDP per capita of USD 25,000 and Qatari GDP per capita was USD 95,000 (according to IMF). When I think about how Korea miraculously raised the rate of growth in GDP per capita up to USD 28,000 through nothing else but only hard work, I'm a little jealous of their wealth. (*Their GDP, however, has fallen in recent years after the oil prices took a nosedive.)

 The beauty market of the Middle East is not as big as the Asian market, but it's expected to grow big. At the moment, Iran, Saudi Arabia and Turkey take 70% of the market. Iran, in particular, will not stay trapped as U.S. President Donald Trump said about the lifting of U.S. sanctions on Iran, though its economy is still struggling. Euromonitor foresees that this attractive market with its population of 80 million will grow over 20% by 2020. The Middle Eastern luxury market presents a superb growth opportunity. As a recent survey has revealed that the richest 10% of people in Dubai spend more than USD 20,000 on luxury beauty products, the luxury goods market of countries along the Persian Gulf, namely the Arab States of the Persian Gulf, is saturated with global brands fighting for market share.

 Looking closely into the Middle Eastern beauty market, fragrance, makeup and body categories capture a large share of the market. Fragrance and body categories are particularly big because of the hot weather and that water is such a precious commodity in the region. UAE is the 3rd in the world in terms of per capita spend on fragrance; women in UAE uses more than one bottle of perfume over two months compared to women in other advanced countries who use an average of one bottle for six months. The skincare market is relatively small, but given that Sephora is getting hold of the market, there is certainly an opportunity for Amorepacific as well.

Desire Hidden Under the Veil

 When they heard about Amorepacific expanding to the Middle East, people asked the same questions about how women in the Middle East wear makeup as they are covered from head to toe and whether they put eye makeup. Some stereotypes about the Middle East stained by sandstorm never seem to go away.

 But, here I will give you reasons as to why the beauty market in the Middle East represents a great opportunity. First, only women in the Gulf countries cover their face. You will find women fully covered as shown in the left image in countries such as Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and UAE. The right image on the other hand is taken in Turkey. Iran and Turkey are another big markets in the Middle East and they have completely different custom. There are also countries in the Middle East with fashion and beauty culture very similar to that of European countries. Second, women in the Gulf countries wear much heavier makeup than Asian women, but only hidden under the veil. They have a strong craving to look beautiful through makeup even though they have to cover up with the veil. And they seem to show their craving for beauty when they are allowed on occasions such as weddings and parties far away from social restraints.

Intense Makeup of Gulf Women

 Women in the Gulf countries seek perfection in their makeup rather than natural look. They prefer a matte look against the hot weather and the latest trend is contouring over perfect flawless-looking skin created using the foundation. I sometimes feel they don't need such heavy makeup as they already have sharp features, but they must not be thinking so; they put considerable effort into making their eyes look bigger and lips look thicker and more defined.

 Huda Kattan is the most influential woman in the Middle East. She went from beauty blogger to owner of beauty brand now running at Sephora with more than 20 million Instagram followers. She makes beauty and style trends in the Middle East.
 Her brand embodies the unique beauty of Arab women in a way that's different from Western brands and offers a glance into the life of beauty icon, the dream that every Arab woman wishes to have.

Beauty of Working Women in Iran

 Iran is now the most conservative Muslim country along with Saudi Arabia, but this wasn't also the case. As shown in the images above, Iran was the most Westernized country in the Middle East in the 1930s before the Iranian Revolution in 1979. Women stayed up to date with the latest Western makeup and beauty trends. But, after the flag of revolution swept Iran in 1979, the power went back to conservatives and the beauty market shrank. Conservatives are not as strong as they used to be, however. As post-revolution generations are connected to the world through the Internet and satellite television, they are growing more open to Western culture.

 One of the traits of Iranian beauty is that because in Iran, many women enter the workforce, they prefer more natural makeup look than Gulf women do. Their focus is eye makeup and Iranian women use 1–2 mascaras every month whereas, for example, French women use an average of one mascara over four months.

 What's interesting of Iran is that it's easy to spot women wearing a white bandage on their nose. Many Iranian women do not like having a big nose and getting a nose job is becoming more popular as cosmetic surgery flourishes in Iran.

 The beauty of the Middle East is certainly different from what we have long known. Such a difference may or may not interest you. It depends on how you embrace it. If you understand the Middle East, new potential customers, what they like and what's their life is like, this whole new world of beauty will not be boring. It can instead give you fun intellectual stimulation.

 Now let me introduce two songs from Disney movies set in the Middle East as I wrap up this column. Enjoy 'A Whole New World' by Lea Salonga and Brad Kane from the soundtrack of Aladdin and 'When You Believe' by Whitney Houston and Mariah Carey from The Prince of Egypt and I wish you best of luck today from Dubai.

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