Chapter 3. Consummation of OSULLOC’s Wisdom: Hannam Tea Garden - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
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2017.05.19
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Chapter 3. Consummation of OSULLOC’s Wisdom: Hannam Tea Garden

This column is a story about the naturally blessed nature of Jeju and the tea gardens of OSULLOC, the great tea made with authenticity.

ColumnistBumjin Lee
Amorepacific OSULLOC BM Team


 Hello, everyone. These days the sunlight feels quite hot, and it seems that summer is just around the corner.

 In Jeju, spring starts with cherry blossoms and canola blossoms. There is one more messenger of spring: tangerine flowers, which bloom in May. Those who travel to Jeju in May are likely to smell the special tangerine scent blown in the spring wind from the flowers of one of the many tangerine trees nearby.

 With this being the season of the tangerine, Jeju's signature fruit, it is worth evoking the scent of beautiful, white tangerine flowers. The flower is famous for its great scent, which is why it became an inspiration for OSULLOC's Tangerine Flower Blending Tea.
  • Tangerine flower of Jeju

  • OSULLOC Tangerine Flower Blending Tea


Autumn color of tangerine forest

 Everyone knows Jeju's tangerine has excellent taste. But, did you know that there is one region that grows the most delicious tangerines on Jeju?

 These days tangerines are classified by the sugar/acid ratio (the ratio between sweetness and sourness) for distribution, so discussing a production area may be meaningless. However, it is believed that tangerines from Seogwipo, the area in the south of Halla Mountain, where the weather is warm and rainy, are more delicious than those from other areas. More specifically, tangerines from Hahyo, Hyodon and Wimi areas of Seogwipo are traditionally known to tastiest. These areas all belong to Namwon-eup, which is where the Hannam Tea Garden is located.

 Hannam Tea Garden is in Hannam-ri, Namwon-eup, where trees are heavily laden with the most delicious tangerines in Jeju make spectacular scene every autumn*.

* 'Autumn color of tangerine forest' : This phrase describes the color of tangerine fields in autumn. It is one of the ten best scenes of Jeju's nature picked by Lee Hanwoo, a poet of Joseon dynasty from Jeju.

  • The location of Jeju Hannam Tea Garden

 Hannam Tea Garden is the most recently cultivated of OSULLOC's Tea Gardens. Starting from 1979, OSULLOC underwent a period of trial and error while cultivating Dolsongi, Wolchulsan and Seogwang Tea Gardens. It was able to apply the priceless experience and know-how it gained from this experience in the cultivation of the vast Hannam Tea Garden, which is about 630,000m2 large, since 1994.
  • Hannam Tea Garden with the first tea plants (left) / Current view of Hannam Tea Garden (right)

 Unlike other tea gardens, Hannam Tea Garden was started on a flat and fertile land in the warmest and rainy area, which are the best condition for the growth of tea plants. That was how Hannam Tea Garden started to fulfill the many stringent requirements for producing the best tea in the world.
  • View of Halla Mountain from Hannam Tea Garden

 Now, I'm going to tell you about the terroir story of the Hannam Tea Garden. Among the five factors Jeju has for creating the best condition for raising tea plants, 'soil,' 'water' and 'wind' are the three key elements of the Hannam Tea Garden. The most important feature of the tea from Hannam Tea Garden is the taste.
  • 5 factors of Jeju nature for tea plant cultivation and the unique feature of Hannam Tea Garden

 Let's find out why Hannam Tea Garden produces the world's highest quality green tea along with various types of fermented tea.  

1. The soil of Hannam: Black soil made by volcanic activities

 As Jeju Island was formed from several volcanic eruptions, various types of soil exist on its surface. The earliest-built Seogwipo Formation is a stratum that has accumulated from about 3.6 million years ago. The most abundant Tamna Formation is a stratum deposited by a volcanic activity similar to the one that destroyed Pompeii, about 500,000 to 600,000 years ago, before the Halla Mountain and numerous parasitic volcanoes (oreum).

 According to scholars studying the strata of Jeju, the Island is built on a sedimentary layer called the Tamna Formation and thus farming is possible, while the Pyoseolli basal rock layer below the Tamna formation is so hard that the plants cannot take root.
  • Stratum distribution in Jeju (Jeju's Movement History, Yoon Sun, et al., Geol. Soc. Korea, v.50, no.4, p457~474,2014)

 The stratum distribution map shows that Seogwang Tea Garden is located in Seogwang lava zone, Dolsongi Tea Garden in a region where basaltic dyke complexes coexist, and Hannam Tea Garden in fertile Tamna Formation area. (The location of each tea garden on the map will also help you understand why Dolsongi Tea Garden is in the valley and why Seogwang Tea Garden is such stony.)
  • The characteristics of Jeju soil

  • Organic matter content in the major series of tea gardens (%)

 Soil is a very significant factor for the growth of plants that take root in the ground. After all, soil is the main medium of absorbing nutrients for plants. All the nutrients needed for plant life, except for the carbon dioxide (CO2) and sunlight, must be absorbed through the roots. That's why it's a great fortune for plants to be able to grow on such good soil. In that sense, tea plants in Hannam Tea Garden must be happy, because the soil of Hannam Tea Garden is rich in organic matters that are the nutrients of plants.

 Soil also plays an important role in supporting the plant's body. If the roots of a plant hold the soil firmly, it doesn't fall even when the wind blows and can absorb more nutrients through the roots. When several plants grow together in one place, they compete with each other for the nutrients contained in the soil, and the roots stretch deeper and deeper to absorb more nutrients. It's easier for plants to take root in softer soil with a lot of pores than in stony soil with hard stones. For the reason, Jeju's soft soil that is made of volcanic ash soil and thus has lots of pores has the favorable condition for plants to absorb the nutrients by deeply taking root.
  • Soil distribution in Hannam Tea Garden

 The stratum of Hannam Tea Garden formed through volcanic activity is composed of many different types of soil. Among them, the soil that defines the biggest characteristics of the Hannam Tea Garden is the Minak series, which occupies more than half of the field. Typically, there are two ways of expressing how fertile a land is for farming.
  • Organic matter content &
    CEC in the major soil series of Hannam Tea Garden

  • The soil color of Hannam Tea Garden

 The first is the amount of organic matter in the soil, which is the potential nutrition of the plant. The second is CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity), which represents the ability of the soil to supply nutrients to the roots. The soil of Minak series is so fertile that the content of organic matter exceeds 20%, and its ability to deliver nutrients to the roots of tea plants is also significantly superior. The key reason why Hannam Tea Garden is the most fertile among the tea gardens of OSULLOC is that the Minak series accounts for 60% of the total area. In general, the higher the organic matter content, the darker the soil. The soil of Hannam Tea Garden is impressively dark black as shown in the photo.

2. The rain formed by the wind of Hannam

Comparison of wind direction/speed between Dolsongi & Hannam Tea Gardens in Apr-May

  The abundant rainfall of Jeju Island makes an ideal condition for the growth of tea plants which is a subtropical plant. Especially, Namwon-eup, Seogwipo-si, where Hannam Tea Garden is located, is one of the rainiest areas in Jeju. As explained in the last column on Seogwang Tea Garden, when the first tea leaves appear from April to May, southeast wind from warm southern ocean, the Pacific Ocean, blows over Hannam Tea Garden. This warm and humid, southeast wind delivers much rain over Hannam Tea Garden.

 Even though Dolsongi Tea Garden and Hannam Tea Garden are located close by, at only about 19 km away from each other, the strength and direction of the wind are different due to the difference of the terrain. In Dolsongi Tea Garden, south and north wind alternates along the valley of Gungsancheon Stream. Hannam Tea Garden, which is located in the vast plain of Halla Mountain, is mainly affected by strong southeasterly and west wind. As this moisture-laden southeasterly wind reaches Halla Mountain, it moves up along the mountain and forms heavy rain clouds localized near the Hannam Tea Garden.
  • Meteorological phenomenon
    of Jeju tea gardens caused by Halla Mountain

  • Annual precipitation by Jeju region (mm)

 As a result, the southeastern region of Jeju where the warm and humid wind from the Pacific Ocean arrives first is widely known as the producing area of not only the most delicious tea but also the best tangerines.

3. Scientific and systematic design of OSULLOC

 When OSULLOC first started cultivating tea fields in the barren lands of Jeju, Korea had no infrastructure for tea plant farming. Therefore, we had to learn a lot about the design of tea fields, farming and processing techniques from Japan, which then had an advanced know-how and culture related to tea.

 However, OSULLOC was able to learn a lot through its experience planting tea in Jeju. The diligent farmers and scientists who made the 'beautiful devotion' of creating fertile land by removing stones in person created the best tea fields in the world based on the wisdom accumulated for a long time. On fertile soil of wide and even Hannam Tea Garden cultivated over four years from 1994 to 1997, we raised assorted types of tea plants. We mixed the precocious, mid-season and late varieties to distribute the harvesting time of first leaves and obtain the best quality leaves. We also planted various kinds of tea plants to provide customers with a more diverse range of flavors.

 Hannam Tea Garden has thus become the best tea field in the world with unprecedentedly scientific design and systematic management. It is really heartwarming to know that Japanese engineers who used to teach us the know-how are now visiting to learn the design and management techniques of Hannam Tea Garden.
  • Distribution of tea plant variety in Hannam Tea Garden

 Fermented tea made from a variety of tea plants suggests another unique characteristic of Hannam Tea Garden. Fermented tea that is gaining popularity for a strong taste and aroma is produced in Hannam Tea Garden. Actually, OSULLOC was doubtful of the feasibility of making fermented tea when it first began. Since fermented tea is diverse in flavor and made in different climatic condition across the world, it was uncertain if the tea can be produced in a limited tea field of Jeju. Fermented tea production requires a process called "withering," which breaks the leaves and removes excess water to produce a unique flavor. This withering process is sensitive to temperature and humidity, and thus it is not easy to develop the right taste and aroma in areas other than the place of origin. However, it was revealed that the temperature and humidity at the time of fermented tea production of Hannam Tea Garden are similar to those conditions of Guangdong Province, Fujian Province and Taiwan, which are the famous fermented tea producing areas. That is, Hannam Tea Garden is suitable for authentic fermented tea production.
  • Withering process to break and dry tea leaves

 Consequently, we established a premium production facility for the highest quality of green tea and fermented tea with assorted flavors in 2012. In this premium facility, we started producing OSULLOC's Ujeon of Masters Green Tea and Samdayeon, a fermented tea product.

4. Major Products of Hannam Tea Garden

OSULLOC Ujeon

 Goku, literally "Grain Rain" Day, the sixth seasonal points of 24 solar terms, means spring rain brings about the growth of hundreds of grains and announces the beginning of farming of a year. Goku is very important time for tea plants as well. In Korea, the tea made with tea leaves plucked before Goku, April 20, has been called Ujeon and believed to have top quality.

 OSULLOC's Ujeon is an authentic Jakseol tea with the perfect harmony of savory taste and sweetness. It is made in a traditional way by roasting only new leaves that are plucked from Jeju's tea fields before April 20.
  • OSULLOC Ujeon


OSULLOC Samdayeon

 Samdayeon, which represents the nature of Jeju, is a fermented tea brand made by traditional wisdom and OSULLOC's know-how about Jeju's pure nature.

 Pre-fermentation refers to the process of generating a refreshing and unique flavor like flower as the polyphenol contained rich in tea leaves is fermented with oxygen. Pre-fermented tea has a unique taste depending on the natural environment and the fermentation strength. OSULLOC's fermented tea from the nature of pure Jeju has a fresh floral aroma and a delicate and savory flavor.
  • Change of tea leaves through withering process of fermented tea

 The signature pre-fermented tea products of Hannam Tea Garden include Samdayeon Cheong of gentle sweetness and delicate floral scent, and Samdayeon Hoo with its deep, savory flavor that stays long in the mouth.
  • Samdayeon Cheong & Hoo (left) / Tea color (right)


5. Epilogue

  • Comparison of major characteristics of OSULLOC tea gardens

 I would like to conclude the Story of OSULLOC's Tea Gardens that was delivered to you in three episodes from last March to May. The amazing journey of OSULLOC Tea Gardens introduced so far started with an incredible story told by OSULLOC's masters who had spent a long time in the tea fields. The scientists of OSULLOC began studying the causes of this phenomenon.

 To answer questions like "Why does the weather of tea fields vary despite the short distance?", "Why are the characteristics of tea leaves different from each other depending on the producing field?", OSULLOC installed a small weather station in each tea garden and recorded the weather and wind throughout the year. OSULLOC visited regional experts in Jeju to ask questions and collect information.

 As a result, OSULLOC learned the unusual meteorological phenomena caused by the Pacific Ocean surrounding the island and by the Halla Mountain standing in the middle of Jeju. Furthermore, OSULLOC is now leading the tea culture of Korea by presenting various products that conveys different characteristics of each tea garden.
  • Amino acid content (%) vs. production date of 2009-2016 green tea products

 2017's first tea is ready to meet you. Every year in the season of first plucking, OSULLOC's Green Tea Festival celerates the first harvest of tea in the year and introduces the fresh tea newly harvested from the year's crops.

 The first crop of tea is so special is because its taste is the freshest of the year thanks to the weather of last winter and this year's spring.

 If the story of OSULLOC's Tea Garden can be compared to the terroir story of wine, the phenomenon of changing tea feature according to the weather condition of each year can be likened to the vintage of wine.

 For example, the first tea of 2011 that went through severely cold winter and experienced a great deal of damage had quite attractive aroma. Last year's first tea from unusually warm winter was high in amino acid content and thus had a very delicate flavor. Then, what will the first tea of this year taste like? We look forward to your anticipation and interest.

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