Ch3. People who make the Cushion - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
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2015.04.29
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Ch3. People who make the Cushion

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Talking about AMOREPACIFIC's special Cushion technology and the innovation behind it

How Much Do You Know about the Cushion?

Chapter 3. People who make the Cushion


How do you define a master artisan? A person who devotes his/her lifetime to one thing? An expert with superior skill? While are many possible definitions, as a general rule, a master artisan is someone who dedicates him/herself to work in one field with zest, pride and self-respect.
The Cushion was able to hit big worldwide largely because of master artisans and their dedication to product development. Making its first debut in 2008, AMOREPACIFIC's Cushion product has evolved through a number of Ad (Advanced). And here, we met two researchers fully committed to the development of innovative Cushion products: Kim Kyung-nam, AMOREPACIFIC Makeup Research 2 Team and Choi Jung-sun, Applicator Research Team.

Kim Kyung-nam, AMOREPACIFIC Makeup Research 2 Team

Kim Kyung-nam joined AMOREPACIFIC R&D Center in 2004 and worked on C&D (Connect & Development) responsible for exploring and promoting new business in the Customer Technology Team, starting with development of lip makeup products. Kim then moved to the Makeup Research 2 Team in 2008, taking over the baton from the Cushion developer Choi Kyung-ho to study the next Cushion products and develop Cushion products for brands affiliated to AMOREPACIFIC Group.
Q. Cushions are much loved worldwide. Please tell us a little about the history and development of the Cushion.
Kim : The Cushion was first developed using liquid-immersed shape. In 2010, the R&D Center developed Cell-trap Tech that stabilized low viscosity fluid in a cell through the optimization of dispersion/immersion/mass production technologies. This technology paved the way for IOPE AIR CUSHION SUNBLOCK EX to be developed in 2010 and, using Mist Transfer Tech that sprays ultrafine dispersed particles in a thin, light layer, HERA UV MIST CUSHION was created in 2012.
We have continued with research and development to offer a Cushion that features a moist texture, while still offering thorough, perfect coverage. And we have developed Cushions of several kinds, including the world-famous LANEIGE Snow BB Soothing Cushion. By expanding our channels, we have been able to lead the growth of the Cushion category. Beginning in 2013, we have provided customers with various benefits through the enhancements and diversification we achieved in Cushion functions. Then, from 2014, we have continued to expand the Cushion category into color makeup, encompassing blusher, eyeliner, highlighter as well as homme Cushion and Sun Cushion.

Q. What is the secret of the Cushion's success?
Kim : R&D Center has adhered to a strategy of listening to the voice of the customer and developing customer-focused products. And the same applies to the development of the Cushion. When we first embarked on the development of the Cushion in 2007, many customers said that it is a real hassle to re-apply sun product on top of their makeup over and over again. That's why we started on the study of innovative products that would be easy to apply anytime and anywhere and that would even help avoid the cumbersome use of extra makeup products. Our study resulted in the massive hit that the Cushion is today. We still carry out research based on the voice of the customer and continue to upgrade the qualities of the Cushion to meet their needs and wants.

Q. As a developer, which product is your favorite?
Kim : A good many Cushions have passed through my hands since I became involved in the development of the Cushion in 2008. And every one of them is dear to me. (Laughter) IOPE AIR CUSHION is a little more special because it was the first Cushion I worked on, and HERA UV MIST CUSHION means a lot to me as I had to go through all sorts of difficulties before it was put on the market. At that time, HERA MIST UV CUSHION was scheduled to be launched on March 1. And I travelled back and forth to the R&D Center and Osan Beauty Campus, even on the weekends, because something unexpected came up. After much meandering, it made a debut. Now it's much loved, the hard times have faded. I have engaged in the development and advancement of the entire HERA MIST Cushion lines (including Natural, Cover and Ultra Moisture) and I have a strong affection for it because of the way my colleagues and I have worked on it from the very beginning.

Q. Do you have any especially memorable episode?
Kim : It was not easy to obtain permission from the Ministry of Food and Drug Safety because the Cushion was an entirely new category. Traditional cosmetic products were categorized as either lotions, creams, balms or cakes, and the Cushion was not applicable to any of them. We worked together with the Regulatory Affairs Team and the Analysis Research Team to get the first ever Cushion registered with the goverment. Members of the Analysis Research Team were of big help in proving the safety through their analysis of sponge standards and harmful substances. This helped us set a Cushion standard. In cooperation with many teams, we were able to get the Cushion accredited as 'a lotion settled in a sponge.'

Q. What will the next Cushion be like?
Kim : It is a little early to talk about technical stuff, but we are very much focused on resolving customer complaints (capacity, coverage, long-lasting power and sticky feeling) and improving customer convenience with innovative applicators (case, immersion, and puff) in the course of preparing the next Cushion. As this type of technical development takes a long time, we plan to bring gradual improvements to our products and launch them one after another instead of solving problems all at once.
HERA will launch a new anti-aging Cushion named Age Reverse in Korea soon. It will be put in a new case that is not compatible with existing ones. A new puff suitable for this new Cushion will be introduced alongside this under the name of Air Cell Puff 2.0. Likewise, the next Cushion will be slimmer and improved in certain aspects.

Q. Let's close this interview with your message to members of AMOREPACIFIC Group. Thank you for taking the time to talk to us.
Kim : The success of products is not up to the efforts of individual researchers. Products are only able to win the hearts of customers when related departments communicate with each other, work together and have team chemistry. Plus, the more tests we do to learn the wants of customers and develop products accordingly, the more likely products are to be a hit. And I think, in this regard, individuals and the whole company can grow only when we all work toward one goal and cooperate with each other.


Choi Jung-sun, AMOREPACIFIC Applicator Research Team

Having joined the AMOREPACIFIC R&D Center in 2000, Choi Jung-sun has done much research and development of new products, including color makeup and face makeup products. In 2007, she was sent to AMOREPACIFIC Tokyo Research Institute in Japan, where she worked on C&D in association with local companies to discover new distinctive formulas. And, from 2010, when awareness of the importance of the puff increased, she carried out special research on tools and cases. She plays a leading role in the development of the puff and immersion tech used with the Cushion.
Q. Interest in the puff has risen as the popularity of the Cushion has grown. How do you see this as an expert?
Choi : The puff has gained increasing importance in recent years. This year, the Applicator Research Team studying tools and patch mask, was newly organized. When I first began research on the puff in 2010, customers were reluctant to use the puff. At that time, the puff was used mostly for power type products. The foundation puff was so difficult to use that only makeup artists used it. That was because the puff absorbs fluid and it was only provided separately. Customers would not have seen any reason to use it. But things have changed in recent years. I am surprised how different customers see it now. I think that the direction of research and products change depending on the voice of the customer.
When it comes to makeup, how makeup is applied on the skin is as important as what is applied. And this is why the applicator is important when doing makeup. Even when the same product is used, customers feel they are inadequate and want to do it better, while makeup artists make the skin look perfect. And the importance of the applicator has increased because of how customers view it. From customers and how they use the Cushion, I learned that they expect much more from the puff and there are areas we can improve. And we therefore need to continue studying puff materials and how to make the puff better.

Q. You must have thought a lot about materials. What made you choose urethane?
Choi : Between 2007 and 2010, many good, portable sun makeup products were launched, responding to growing customer demand for light-textured makeup products. We worked hard to meet their demand and, as a result, the Cushion was invented. But, the latex puff used at that time was not suitable for light, low viscosity fluid. It could not set fluid on the skin well, sometimes causing a cakey look. Then, we discovered polyurethane. It took about 2 years to examine it, but it was found to be better than latex. It has smaller pores, which helps it to put fluid on the skin without getting cakey. The material used is good, but what makes our puff better is its shape, as it's this which allows customers to put on makeup without getting their hands stained.

Q. What is the story behind the development of the puff?
Choi : The Cushion was the main summer product when it was first released. There were many issues involved in its production, as well as with patents and the puff. Tension continued day after day. Years later, the Cushion became a year-round product and there were more things to prepare. The rising sales of the Cushion brought with it the problem of securing adequate supply of the puff. At first, production of Air Cell material mattered most, but now puff processing has become an important part.
The puff looks simple, but it comes through at least 6 processes, requiring much considerable handwork from making fabrics to cutting, pasting and sewing them. Moreover, it is made from specialized material. Our challenge is to improve the fabrics used and streamline the production process in order to ensure a stable supply of the puff.

Q. What do you think is most important when developing the puff?
Choi : Since the puff touches the skin, its texture is important. Only when it is pleasing to the touch will customers want to use the puff on their skin and see how it helps do makeup. In this regard, I touch many kinds of material, feel them on the face and use together with the fluid when studying the puff. Each material has different a texture and feel.
All the Cushions of AMOREPACIFIC Group brands use the same puff, made from the same material. But its color differs depending on brand identity. As if by magic, the texture varies with color. Blue, pink and brown-toned puffs feel softer and much denser.

Q. Do you have any especially memorable episodes?
Choi : We are now familiar with the puff in blue, but at first many asked why the blue was used, whether it had to be blue in color. Some even said that it is too showy. The first version was in conventional beige. But, when the puff gets stained with, for example, mascara or any other substances while fixing makeup, it doesn't look good to the eye. And some customers asked us whether mold had formed. We checked and it was not mold. Anyhow, we changed the color to blue, as it does not look too dirty even when it gets stained. It has now become an iconic color of the Cushion puff. There is a reason behind our color choice. After all, everything happens for a reason. (Laughter)

Q. Let's close this interview with your message to members of AMOREPACIFIC Group. We are looking forward to seeing next-generation puff along with next-generation Cushion. Thank you for taking the time to talk to us.
Choi : We always learn something new, something we have not known before while studying new puff materials. As customer satisfaction with Air Cell puff is high, we look at what additional benefits we could deliver to customers in the course of studying the next-generation puff.
Applicators including the puff can make products more perfect and provide different, distinctive benefits to customers. I want to discover and develop benefits that are unknown at this moment together with applicators. There is still much work to do and I'd like to ask for your continued interest and support.
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