Steps Taken Overseas - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
#Jangwon’s Centenary
2024.11.08
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Steps Taken Overseas

Once he resolved that it was the path he must follow, Jangwon trusted his intuition and steadfastly pressed forward. The world he ventured into was not a place of clear and certain direction. Rather, it was a realm where resolution was a precondition due to obscurity, and courage was required to approach it. Even amid uncertainty, Jangwon explored a broader world with the spirit of "slow and steady wins the race.1)" To do so, he needed the courage to trust his choices. The unwavering trust he accumulated with those who recognized his passion for cosmetics also became a vital tool in Pacific’s journey into the global market. Early on, international connections who valued Jangwon’s attitude and character became steppingstones amidst the challenging terrain of the export market.

 

1) The original Korean proverb is 우보천리 (牛步千里), which translates to "A thousand miles at a steady pace."

 

 

First Step: Japan

 

“Jangwon is a man who walked the walk instead of simply talking the talk ”
—Yoshino Fragrance Representative

 

 

Chairman Sungwhan Suh explaining the benefits of ginseng in Japan in 1975.

 

 

Pacific had been engaging with Japan since the 1960s. Yoshino Fragrance, the company’s first business partner, had built a solid foundation of trust with Pacific even before the normalization of diplomatic relations between South Korea and Japan. The continued friendship was due in large part to Jangwon’s sincere passion for cosmetics, Pacific, and people. His habit of learning through experience and taking action before speaking about his goals was as striking overseas as it was at home.
An example of this is how Jangwon, with a strong sense of determination and the assistance of his Japanese partner Yoshino Fragrance, managed to penetrate the Japanese market—a market where the chance of success was close to zero —at a time when Korean cosmetics were still unfamiliar. The product Pacific presented to Japanese buyers was Ginseng Sammi, a cosmetic imbued with the ginseng. The product development journey involved overcoming numerous hurdles.

Gaeseong, where Jangwon spent his childhood surrounded by ginseng fields, was a place that introduced Ginseng to the world. To him, ginseng was an ingredient closely intertwined with life itself. It was after seeing the landscape of Grasse in France that it first occurred to him that ginseng might be a potential ingredient for cosmetics. The idea to create a ginseng-based cosmetic struck him suddenly, and though Ginseng Sammi was launched in 1973, it is indeed evident that the years between 1964, when the idea first came to him, and 1973 were filled with extensive research and deliberation.
Beginning from a time when there was no scientific studies on ginseng, the company analyzed its effects and active components and improved the product to eliminate the unique smell of ginseng and ensure it wouldn’t irritate the skin. Jangwon and research fellows was riding a roller coaster of joy and disappointment as they watched their research process.

After establishing the company’s Tokyo office in 1971 and successfully entering the Japanese market, Jangwon worked tirelessly to promote the efficacy of Ginseng Sammi. Although the exports didn’t break any records, the company’s entry into Japan undeniably became a prime water for opening up the wider Asian market. Moreover, the close relationships formed with Japanese collaborators during this time, solidified by deep trust and passion, are undeniable. Those who worked with Pacific in Japan reflect on Jangwon as a humble and modest figure, with a gaze filled with human warmth and a deep-seated passion for cosmetics.

 

 

Second Step: The United States

 

“Amore has arrived in LA.”
— «The Korea Times » 

 

 

Even after venturing into the global markets, the road ahead was never smooth. The United States, in particular, was a land that seemed as distant as a dream. Wealth, strength, the advancement—everything seemed to be concentrated there, making entry more challenging than anticipated. Knocking on the door of the U.S. market seemed to be a privilege granted only to those who had surmounted the most arduous obstacles. Though the methods of overcoming those obstacles and knocking on that door were not kindly shared, Jangwon was determined to find a way. This was a period of perseverance, where he walked forward focusing only on the ground before him, without stopping or retreating despite the uncertain path ahead.


The first milestone in the U.S. was the establishment of the New York branch in 1972. However, the import quota system implemented by the government at that time created obstacles as Pacific had to increase its export volume in an as yet unfamiliar market. Assessing that Pacific lacked the capability to export to the U.S., Jangwon decided to target a niche market, choosing fishing bait as the company’s first U.S. product. However, the mismatch between Pacific and fishing bait was evident, and the lack of a quality guarantee hindered progress into the U.S. market.
While this was going on, Jangwon heard that Yooyoung Industry, the company made famous by the popular Bandalypyo Stockings, was about to be sold. Given that Yooyoung Industry was one of the top companies at the time (ranked No. 4 or 5) the Korean market in terms of miscellaneous goods exports, acquiring it could alleviate Pacific’s export pressure.Upon acquiring Yooyoung, Pacific was able to overcome the barriers of the import quota system, and by establishing a local subsidiary in New York in 1978, the company paved the way for its new North American business. With the success of exporting the pearl essence to the U.S., Southeast Asia, and Japan, Pacific appeared to be on the verge of establishing a stable presence in the U.S. market.

The unprecedented courage to open the door to U.S. exports and the strength gained from Jangwon’s determination to expand into the wider global market, began to shine when the LA branch was established in 1984. Anticipating that the Korean diaspora settled around Los Angeles and California would become loyal customers, Jangwon decided to invest in selling cosmetics and expanding the company’s trading business in California, even if it required substantial investment. Korean residents lined up to wait for the opening of Amore stores, and it was not unusual to see people wiping away tears outside the stores. Thus, after surpassing $1 million in sales in 1986, Pacific cemented its business in the U.S. by constructing a new building for the LA corporation in 1990. It was a triumph born of confidence in the company’s products and faith in its decisions.

 

 

Third Step: Europe (Germany, France)

 

After Japan and the United States, Europe was next. Believing it advantageous to explore Germany, where Korean companies had already established a presence, Pacific set up a branch in Frankfurt, Germany, in February 1977. The following year, in 1978, the company established a local corporation, securing a stable foothold in Germany. Once again, Jangwon reflected on his lifelong dream—“To sell his own products in Frances, where the best cosmetics were thought to be made.” Surprisingly, it was an unexpected connection that made this possible.
A French secretary from a paper business Pacific had previously partnered with became a key link. As a token of gratitude for her assistance with business matters, Pacific gifted her with ‘Soonjung,’ a product the company had launched, which eventually led them to a Monaco importer. Soonjung, known for being color-free, fragrance-free, and alcohol-free, was often regarded more as a medicine than a cosmetic. Its pristine and unblemished appeal appeared promising among Europeans, and the Monaco importer’s suggestion that it was a product worth selling through pharmacies bolstered their expectations. Finally, the company’s persistent dream of entry into the French market was realized.

 

 

PBS(Parfums Beauté de Suh) factory that was established in Chartres, France.

All employees at the factory in France posing for a keepsake photo.

 

 

In September 1990, Pacific established a local corporation in Chartres, France. When Soonjung was later produced in the Chartres factory under the product name 'SOON,' many remember the radiant smile that lit up Jangwon’s face as he exclaimed, “It’s nice!” SOON appeared to be on a smooth trajectory, even winning the grand prize in the France Oscar design category. However, sales through drug stores, as suggested by the Monaco trader, did not yield the desired results. The lack of interest from French drug stores, where well-established local cosmetic brands already held a dominant position, led to frequent contacts regarding the handling of unsold stock.
Although Pacific collaborated with France’s thalassotherapy specialist, the Rockroum Center, to launch ‘Lirikos’ brand. sales did not meet expectations. Carving out a space among the established leading brands proved to be more challenging than anticipated. The executives at Pacific often engaged in heated debates about the company’s French business. While the discussions always centered on profitability, Jangwon remained calm, saying, “France is still an investment, not an expense.” His steady voice always left a deep impression.

 

 

Fourth Step: China

 

"China will open up soon. So be well prepared."

 

 

Jangwon was always a few steps ahead, trying to forecast the future. Attentive to international affairs and meticulous in his attention to both internal and external matters at Pacific, he often made astute choices and decisions. China was no exception. Sensing changes in China by the late 1980s, he emphasized to his executives that China would soon open up. As Jangwon had expected, Korea established a diplomatic relations with China, and Pacific quickly sent out the Chinese market research team.
Once again, Jangwon made another decisive decision. While the global cosmetics industry focused on creating a bridgehead into the Shanghai market, he shifted his approach and directed the company to focus on the northeastern hub of Fengtian instead. Fengtian was the old name of today’s Shenyang. Considering that Beijing and Shanghai were already becoming central hubs of China, he judged that Shenyang would be the ideal base for some immersive marketing within the Chinese market. Gaining experience there would make it much easier to expand into the central areas of the country. This decision to take a half-circle detour was a reflection of Jangwon’s wisdom and business acumen, honed through experience.

At the time, the cost of a set of Amore cosmetics in the Chinese market was almost equivalent to one full, 80-kilogram bag of rice. Though there were concerns that the price would be a barrier, Jangwon, always looking to the future rather than aiming for immediate gains, stuck to his marketing strategy. His foresight was spot on in the Chinese market. Pacific was finally able to supply cosmetics to about ten department stores, including Shenyang Zhongxing Department Store. Jangwon never resorted to tricks or shortcuts regardless of the situation.
The honesty with which he forged ahead without seeking shortcuts yielded solid results overseas. While he sometimes sprinted down straight paths, his journey was often one of winding and rugged roads. Even when he faced moments of breathless difficulty, Jangwon remained composed. In every moment, he strove to demonstrate his intentions through actions rather than words, and once he reached a decision after careful deliberation, he focused on moving forward without regret. In this way, he steadfastly nurtured Pacific’s future.

 

 

 

 

Editor’s Epilogue
If You Have Conviction Within

Everyone encounters challenging situations. These may stem from within or from external sources, and at times, the inability to identify the cause can lead to frustration. While some people shrink when obstacles appear on the path to their goal, others press forward regardless. Even if the pace of progress slows, the strength to continue in the desired direction comes from the conviction in one’s own decisions. If you have thoroughly considered your choices and made them independently, the courage to confront challenges will emerge. Once you’ve carefully deliberated and made a choice, proceed along the chosen path, even if obstacles arise. Your conviction will guide you in the right direction.

 

 

 

 

Written and photographed by Juyoun Lee (Sanchaekbang)

Managed by Around

Revised critical edition by SuRyuSanBang

Planning and coordination Amorepacific Communications Team

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