Mi-jung Lee (Mother) Our family fell on hard times after a series of misfortunes. When life gets tough, people often yearn for home—and that’s precisely what I did. I grew up in Yongsan’s Seogye-dong, where I spent my childhood with my mother and grandmother. I decided to return to my roots and open a small restaurant. Cooking became both a means of survival and coping with hardship. I’d prepare ingredients early every morning and pour my heart into every dish. That’s how I managed to persevere.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) It was 2012, and I was about 25 at the time, working at a corporate job. Out of the blue, my mother called and sent me an address. When I arrived, I found a tiny restaurant, and she was sitting inside. She told me, with this sparkle in her eyes, “I’m starting over here.” (laughs) That place became Sumzip’s very first location.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Honestly, it didn’t shock me—my Mother rarely consults with anyone! (laughs) But I knew how much she’d pushed herself after our financial struggles. I think she felt a deep sense of responsibility, wanting to ensure we didn’t feel the effects of those hardships.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) I’ve always loved working, so the struggle didn’t bother me. What pained me most was seeing my kids go through tough times. I told myself, “I can rebuild from the ground up; I can do this.” I wrote the words ‘To succeed, you must abandon yourself’ on the wall and looked at them daily as I worked. That phrase is still hanging in my house today.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) This area held many childhood memories for me, and the rent was affordable at the time. Amorepacific had temporarily relocated, and there weren’t many large companies or restaurants nearby. Given our financial situation, it was the perfect place—we ended up leasing a small spot where the Saemaeul Credit Union now stands.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) My focus wasn’t on a specific customer type. I wanted to feed anyone hungry. Ours is a post-war generation—it’s hard to imagine now, but hunger was a constant companion for everyone back then. All I thought about was making sure every person who walked through our doors left with a full stomach. Even today, I remind my staff to pay special attention to guests dining alone.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Because my mother didn’t target any specific demographic, our customers span a wide range—from those in their early 20s to those in their 70s. That’s something I’m particularly proud of. In an era marked by generational divides, Sumzip feels like a place where different generations come together, and that brings me a sense of fulfillment.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) At the time, the neighborhood had a very rural feel. Chickens roamed freely, and elderly gentlemen played janggi (Korean chess) outside a 40-year-old barbershop. The alley where our restaurant was located was dark and run-down. When I called my mother after her workday, I’d always say, “Please be careful on your way home instead of asking how business was.” That’s how unsafe and poorly lit it was. My mother would leave the shop sign on intentionally to light the street. She still keeps that habit today. But everything changed when the new Amorepacific headquarters was built, followed by companies like HYBE and LG U+. The area transformed utterly.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) An island (seom) has land, sea, and sky, just like our food, which comes from both the land and the sea. That’s why I chose the name ‘Sumzip’ (Island House). Isn’t it beautiful?

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Initially, the menu included dishes like eel soup, soy-marinated crab, grilled eel, and spicy fish stew—all of which we still serve today. Many of these dishes were developed based on early customer feedback. My mother has a remarkable ability to absorb suggestions and adapt recipes accordingly. The customers played a significant role in shaping the Sumzip we know now.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) Back then, the restaurant was small, with few customers. If someone asked me to stir-fry meat, I’d try it for them. If they suggested a specific side dish, I’d experiment with it. If the feedback were good, I’d add it to the menu. That’s how the menu gradually expanded.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) The space was tiny, so our revenue wasn’t significant. But we had loyal regulars, including the Yongsan Tax Office staff, who kept coming back. About two years in, though, we were asked to vacate because the building was being sold to a bank. We had to relocate quickly and couldn’t even afford proper renovations at the new location. Slowly, as word spread, sales began to improve. In 2019, everything changed when we were featured on the TV show “Young Man Huh's Food Travel.” After that, the number of customers skyrocketed. We hired more staff and eventually expanded to three locations.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) After leaving my corporate job, I was running my own business, which gave me some free time to help out at the restaurant. But things changed when we were featured on television, and I officially joined the team. I had been monitoring customer reviews for a while and realized that it might become problematic if we continued as we were. Service can suffer when a restaurant gets busy, and food can be delayed. I started noticing complaints popping up.
If my mother is all about drive and determination, I’m the detail-oriented one. I felt my role was to “buckle the seatbelt” and apply the brakes when needed while she pressed the accelerator. I began by organizing the menu, improving the kitchen workflow, and managing ingredient sourcing to establish a better system.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) When my son first came on board, he saw that I was writing bills by hand and said, “Mother, how have you been managing like this?” I didn’t use a point-of-sale (POS) system because I felt I had everything memorized—it was my shop. He wanted to install one, but I refused, and we argued about it for a month. Eventually, we brought one in, and I must admit, it made things so much easier! (laughs)

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Not at all—I love working at the restaurant. Previously, I worked in marketing, which was more outbound—I had to seek out customers actively. But in the restaurant business, customers come to you. I feel incredibly fortunate that many people visit us and compliment the food. No job is easy, but I often think: Where else could I work this hard and still have people praise and encourage me? It’s something I’m deeply grateful for and genuinely enjoy.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) The first location had to close due to redevelopment, and the rent at the second and third locations skyrocketed. We debated whether to move out of Shinyongsan entirely, but my mother insisted we stay—she wanted to remain close to the long-time staff and regular customers. That’s when we decided to combine all three locations under one roof. We often felt guilty about sending customers to other branches when the restaurant was full. Consolidating everything into one building was more expensive, and the rent was a concern. But I remembered something Jong-won Baek said in “Jong-won Baek’s Alley Restaurant”: “If you earn one million won, think of five-hundred thousand won as not yours and reinvest it in your business.” We’ve reinvested nearly everything we’ve earned back into Sumzip. Since moving, our customers have been incredibly supportive, and their satisfaction brings us so much joy.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) At first, I wanted to design the interior my way, but in the end, my mother made all the decisions. (laughs) I had hoped to create a trendy, stylish space, but Sumzip welcomes various age groups. If the atmosphere became too “Instagrammable,” some might feel it wasn’t a place for them. My mother was right. We used much wood to create a warm, welcoming space that felt comfortable for everyone. In today’s world, where generational divides are so pronounced, I want our restaurant to be where no one feels excluded. Watching guests from different generations share meals often moves me deeply.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Using a reservation app could be unfair. Many older customers aren’t familiar with apps, and I didn’t want anyone to feel disadvantaged. When we’re fully booked, we ask customers to leave their contact information on paper and call them when a table opens up. On particularly hot or cold days, we suggest nearby cafés where they can wait more comfortably. While this approach leads to a higher dropout rate, I believe it’s the right thing to do for our guests. Nowadays, some restaurants use long queues outside as a marketing tactic, but simply being grateful that customers choose to visit us should come first. Reducing inconvenience is part of that gratitude.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) The lab is a space we created to meet the expectations of our loyal customers. It’s where we experiment with recipes and develop new dishes. Sometimes, we test these creations with our regulars to get their feedback.
We also plan to produce content in the lab. I want to film my mother cooking—capturing her recipes and conversations naturally. It’s about preserving her knowledge while trying new things. I hope the space becomes a hub for innovation and creativity.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) I’d recommend our stews, perfect for satisfying a hearty appetite. The ‘Spicy Hairy Crab and Blue Crab Stew’ is our signature dish among them. We use homemade gochujang (Korean red chili paste) along with hairy crabs and blue crabs. The result is a rich, savory, refreshing flavor unique to Sumzip. I don’t think you’ll find this combination anywhere else.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) I’d go with the soy sauce marinated crab. We use top-quality ingredients, making the dish flavorful without being overly salty. There’s no need to add anything extra when the raw materials are this good. I have a special attachment to this dish since I oversaw the ingredient upgrades during its development.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) ‘Side dishes’. I emphasized that we must always be careful when preparing them. Growing up, we were always told to take a spoonful of rice with a little bit of each side dish—that was the essence of our table culture. So, I ensure our side dishes are made with care so that even a simple meal of rice feels satisfying and nourishing.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Preparing side dishes fresh every day is tedious and demanding, especially with rising food costs. But my mother constantly experiments and comes up with creative ideas. For example, she once combined similar-looking ingredients like bracken and seaweed stems to create a visually appealing ‘tone-on-tone’ vegetable dish. She wants even the simplest sides to feel new and exciting for our customers.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) The most significant advantage is that I get to witness my mother’s incredible drive and creativity firsthand. Watching her excel at things I can’t do is truly inspiring—though it sometimes makes me wonder, “Why didn’t I inherit that gene?” Another highlight is sharing the rewarding Motherents of serving our customers. It’s a sense of fulfillment we couldn’t share without working together. As for the downside, I occasionally reveal my vulnerable side to her. When things get overwhelmingly busy, or I’m exhausted, I sometimes let my frustrations show—something I wouldn’t do with others but find myself doing with family. Those Motherents always leave me feeling regretful.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) I don’t think there are any real downsides. If I had to name one, I sometimes make mistakes because I don’t understand today’s trends. For instance, I got a reservation inquiry before we relocated, asking if an international singer could book a table. We were fully booked, so I turned it down. Later, I found out it was for Bruno Mars! My son couldn’t stop groaning when he heard about it, and I felt so bad. (laughs)

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) As the founder, my mother has a clear vision and set principles for running things, and I respect that. Occasionally, I propose ideas that deviate slightly from those principles, and her initial reaction is usually cautious. But she’s often willing to consider my suggestions by the next day. Because of this dynamic, we’ve never had a significant conflict or severe disagreement.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) As you get older, you naturally become more set in your ways. But I’ve always disliked the “old-school mindset.” Times change, and younger people’s ideas are often the right ones. I try to stay open to that.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) The most challenging time was during the pandemic. Sales dropped significantly, and we had to dip into our savings to stay afloat. But even then, I didn’t let a single employee go. I knew they had families depending on them, and this wasn’t just a short-term relationship—we were in this together. A temporary struggle wasn’t enough reason to let anyone go.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Sometimes, my mother does get anxious, and when she does, I remind her: “We came to Yongsan with nothing, so even if things fall apart, it’s okay. Isn’t it all a fun adventure in the end?” Anxiety doesn’t change the reality of a difficult situation. The only solution is to focus on the task at hand. We pour our efforts into making side dishes daily and doing our best in the Motherent. I make rolled omelets when I feel uneasy—almost like a prayer. Blaming someone or something doesn’t help, but staying present and diligent does. Eventually, customers recognize that effort.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) It’s when I’m bustling around the dining room, greeting customers, and working. That kind of busyness is pure happiness for me.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Today, being here for this interview with Amorepacific and my mother? (laughs) Ultimately, it’s all thanks to our customers. My day begins with taking reservations in the morning and ends with sending off customers at night. My life is a rollercoaster of emotions—joy, frustration, and gratitude—all because of them. My customers are my everything.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) For me, it’s my children. I worked to support them in the past, and now, I work alongside them. My children are my driving force.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) My mother’s relentless determination is what fuels me. While I might act as the brakes when needed, seeing her press the accelerator with so much passion is incredibly inspiring. Our customers also keep me going. Their compliments and even their occasional criticisms motivate me every day.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) I treat our customers like family. Consider how many restaurants are in this area—yet they choose to come here. That makes them as precious as a family to me. I always tell my staff to greet every customer warmly, even if they’re dining alone, and to make them feel genuinely welcome.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) I believe it’s because of our side dishes. If we ever skimped on them, we wouldn’t have this level of love from our customers. We prepare fresh side dishes daily, experimenting with new ideas to keep things interesting. Since side dishes are the first thing customers experience, we ensure they’re complete and satisfying.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) We get many international visitors, especially those touring Amorepacific or fans visiting HYBE Entertainment. Social media plays a significant role—people see photos from others who’ve been here and decide to come themselves. I think the appeal lies in offering a slightly different experience of Korean cuisine. Visitors to Korea often eat dishes like bibimbap or bulgogi, which are staples of traditional Korean food. Sumzip provides something a bit more unique. Our soy sauce marinated crab is especially popular with foreign guests. We don’t adjust the recipe for them, but surprisingly, they enjoy it just as it is.

Cho Hyun-soo (Son) Never reduce portion sizes. The restaurant will inevitably fail if you start cutting portions or substituting inferior ingredients because of rising costs. Customers have sharp palates—they’ll notice everything. Instead, we look for reasonably priced alternatives or, in some cases, operate at a loss. Reducing portion sizes is a guaranteed path to failure. Our principle is clear: never compromise on quantity or quality of ingredients.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) At this stage in my life, I don’t have much greed or many expenses, so I don’t want to cut corners or obsess over saving money on ingredients.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) Work with joy. You spend all day working, so enjoying what you do is essential. I also tell my staff not to come in if they’re sick. When you’re unwell, it shows in your emotions, impacting both the food and the service. My motto is: if you’re going to do it, do it with joy.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Trust your customers’ taste buds. They never lie. Provide delicious food at a fair price, and with patience, your time will come. Good days will follow.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Although company dinners aren’t as typical as they once were, we still get many visitors. I remember one guest in particular. Shortly after I joined Sumzip, I was brainstorming ways to promote the restaurant. I had just created our Instagram account and came across a post featuring an Amorepacific employee badge. After some hesitation, I politely commented on their photo, introducing ‘Sumzip’ and inviting them to visit. To my surprise, they actually came! Later, their entire team came for a company dinner, and over time, we started seeing more and more Amorepacific guests. Even Amorepacific Chairman Kyung-bae Suh eventually visited us. That experience gave me an immense sense of fulfillment. It taught me that even a tiny action, like leaving a comment, could trigger a butterfly effect. It also boosted my confidence. While some might consider it inappropriate for a stranger to leave a comment, the fact that they responded so warmly and visited meant the world to me. That guest remains an unforgettable patron—an “angel” customer, so to speak.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) They’re all remarkably polite—so much so that their kindness and professionalism often take me aback. But there are subtle distinctions. Amorepacific visitors are incredibly sophisticated and cheerful. I remember how they positively enjoyed their meals, even in our old, cramped space, before we relocated. HYBE visitors are trendy and full of personality, while LG U+ guests have a warm and approachable demeanor. Yongsan Tax Office employees are very upright and gentlemanly.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Sumzip’s success combines my mother’s determination and sheer luck. While my mother worked tirelessly to build this business, Amorepacific played a crucial role in establishing the Shinyongsan area as a thriving commercial district. Without their presence, we wouldn’t have achieved this level of success. Also, Amorepacific gave me my first small victory when I struggled to find footing after joining the restaurant. That one comment I left led to a meaningful connection, and their support over the years has been extraordinary. For me, Amorepacific holds a remarkable place in my heart.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) Happiness is ‘sharing a meal.’ Sharing food with our customers and paying our staff to provide for their families is happiness. It’s all about sharing.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) Happiness is ‘rolled omelets.’ They’re tough to make, but once they’re done, they look beautiful, and everyone loves them.

Mi-jung Lee (Mother) I imagine I’ll still be running around this alleyway ten years from now. Life gets boring as you age, but sharing delicious food with others is enjoyable. I have no plans to retire—I wouldn’t know what else to do! Besides, I love this work too much. I believe people need hope and work to keep going.

Hyun-soo Cho (Son) I’ll likely still be running Sumzip 10 years from now. My biggest hope is that my mother stays healthy so we can continue working together. I'll ease the brakes when she steps on the accelerator when necessary. I also want Sumzip to remain a source of pride for our customers. I hope that those who love and cherish our restaurant will feel proud as they watch us grow and improve.

epilogue
Mi-jung Lee and Hyun-soo Cho dream of ‘Sumzip’ becoming a space that transcends generations, where everyone feels welcome. We hope that the restaurant continues to be cherished by future generations.