Which product has sold at a rate of one per second (as of 2015); which product has surpassed cumulative sales of 80 million (as of 2015); and which product is used by 75% of Korean women (according to the survey targeting 800, contributed by TNS Korea)? The answer to all three is Amorepacific's innovative product, the cushion compact. Found in the handbags and pouches of many women all over the world, the cushion compact and research into its development is the main subject of this, the sixth column from Asian Beauty Lab (ABL).

The cushion compact that has sparked a K-beauty boom around the world was not made in a day. How many challenges and crises did ABL face before creating a new beauty trend, and how did it overcome them?

In the mid-2000s, increasing recognition about the harmful effect of UV rays prompted many women to reapply sunblock frequently on a fully made-up face. Busy working lives for women has led to greater demand for multi-functional cosmetics, while the trend for natural makeup has promoted the sales of light liquid-type products. Based on customer needs analysis, we have launched research into a product that can be reapplied easily anytime, anywhere, making it a great complement to makeup.

Given the relative strengths and weaknesses of existing makeup products and their formulas, we considered a new fusion-type formula that combined the strengths of each product. One day, while holding ideation meetings and brainstorming based on extensive customer analysis, we came up with a revolutionary idea from a stamp holding liquid. We thought that, although ink was different from cosmetics in some ways, its fundamental principle was similar to cosmetics. We realized that we could create "Non Fluidal Liquid" to develop a new fusion-type formula like no other. Thus, we began making the first prototype, excited to see how it would develop.

However, we learned that the development of a "Non Fluidal Liquid" formula was just one of many factors necessary to develop a cushion compact, and collaborations with various areas were needed. Securing a liquid formula that could hold ample moisture required the development of a new structure of airtight container; portable, compact and slim design. It also required a new process capable of putting liquid content into sponge. We were soon immersed in research into each part. When we presented our first prototype to our internal customers, the feedback was: it was like a toy and too new. Based on such opinions, however, we moved onto the development stage, identifying hidden customer needs and attempting to improve their dissatisfactions.

The sponge is a kind of "carrier." For this, we had to repeat challenging tests to develop a sponge capable of holding liquid in a stable way because there had been no cases in which the sponge was applied to cosmetic products. As a result, we concluded that an urethane foam with 800,000 pores was the optimum carrier. To put content into the carrier, a low-viscosity formula with a good flow was needed. Our challenge was to develop this.

We tried this in two ways. First, we developed a new technology to disperse pigment finely and evenly, making it analogous to sand if the existing foundation is gravel. The high-content powder spreads more evenly than through existing formulas. Generally, a low-viscosity cosmetic formula with a good flow tends to separate oil from water quickly over time. Second, we completed a new technology to stabilize low-viscosity liquid particles by trapping powder into cells in the foaming urethane foam – i.e. the "carrier" we developed. This enabled us to prevent coalescence and we named the new technology "Cell-trap."

Combining our innovative technologies enabled us to launch IOPE AIR CUSHION SUNBLOCK in 2008.

We have been committed to upgrading the technologies of our cushion compacts since we first launched it in 2008 by focusing on the study of effectively preventing UV rays with a light texture by compounding UV-blocking substances in the optimum ratio to strengthen the sunblock effect. Further, we have conducted studies to subdivide various functions, involving coverage, long-lasting effect and pore control to satisfy different customer needs. The cushion compact's main functions and efficacies, such as sweat-proof and cooling effects, were newly developed and objectively proven through clinical tests in order to respond aggressively to global warming and the needs of ASEAN customers.

Improved packaging capacity is critical for the success of new cushion compacts. For this reason, our packaging has concentrated all its energy on continually developing key technologies such as slimmer design and greater portability to lead the market of cushion compacts. In addition to research into formula, Amorepacific has developed technology to standardize the visual quality of cushion compacts through the automatization of "liquid impregnation" process line and the optimization of press process to enable mass production.

Since our cushion compacts were first exported in 2012, we have worked closely with many departments and overseas research institutes to study how skin's properties vary by race, skin-affecting climatic characteristics, lifestyles and usage trends. This enables us to launch customized products well-suited to each customer's specific skin type by incorporating the opinions of customers from each country. We have devoted ourselves to developing new shades suiting regional demands that can cover various races since 2014. As a result, we have succeeded in presenting favorite colors by region: mainly China, ASEAN and the U.S., through research into skin colors by region and the analysis of competitive products; securing inventory on dozens of pigments through years of study on how to create beautiful colors; and expanding shade ranges by giving variety to brightness and chroma, which have now been applied to makeup products of our five global champion brands.

The technological innovation and contribution which we have achieved through ceaseless customer-led research, development and quality upgrades over the past decade has been recognized in many awards: we won the excellence award at the 2012 Korea Technology Awards, the grand prize at the 2012 Korea Technology Innovation Awards, the 2013 Next Generation World-Class Product Prize, and the 2014 IR52 Jang Young-sil Prize, boosting our brand recognition internationally.

In an attempt to combine Asian beauty with advanced science technology, we have started researching ways to advance cushion compacts in such way to complement skin condition by applying the skincare efficacies of indigenous Asian ingredients to naturally cover the skin's imperfections using advanced makeup technologies in combination with leading examples from other industries. This study has been conducted along with Korean women's growing interest in natural-looking makeup, rather than heavy coverage.

Now, let's look at a high-level view of the cushion compact technologies we have been developing most recently.

First, we are developing "ultrafine dispersion technology" formulated specifically to make powder evenly and seamlessly spread on the face. This minimizes particles up to 30% compared to existing particles, offering light application and high coverage without becoming thick and patchy. Get natural skin expression as if not putting on makeup.

Second, we are developing a new-type formula that turns into a light-textured, downy powder to enhance the skin fit, boost the expression of bright, radiant skin, and maintain all-day foundation coverage. We are also engaged in the development of a new material by polymerizing Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA) molecules on the surface of the cover powder based on the ideas of how Post-its work.

Third, we are developing the cell control technology which controls various factors such as the quality of "carrier" and the size of pores, to secure great durability resistant to intense heat and cold; the hygroscopic property that can hold content safely and efficiently; and the emission of an adequate amount for an even application.

Lastly, we continue to research tools such as puffs given the vital role they play in delivering content on the skin for optimum skin expression. Particularly, we have focused on developing puffs coated with moisture for an expression of moist skin and with a convenience capable of easily removing pollutants from it with tissue as a way to help maximize and boost skin expression.

We are committed to continuing with our work to present diverse cushion compact technologies which can lead the cushion compact market through constant research and development. We look forward to your support and interest in our cushion compacts.