Discover how the lip category is making its comeback for the post-pandemic era with the convergence of nourishing lip care and expressive lip cosmetics.

Though known historically for being recession-resistant, the lip category was hit hard by the pandemic. 'The lipstick effect’ was impacted by mask-wearing, the shift to home-based lifestyles, and increased financial pressure. But all is not lost. With mask mandates lifting across the globe, new opportunities for the lip market are emerging post-pandemic, as consumers rethink lipstick and embrace lip care. According to NPD Group, the lip category grew 48% YoY in Q1 of 2022, making it the fastest-growing cosmetics category.

lipstick’s decline combined with an uptick in lip care will pique interest in skincare-infused formulations. Long staying-power that caters to new flexi-lifestyle routines, from screen-ready to on-the-go, must be prioritised. Brands should adopt this new convergence of lip care and cosmetics as the ultimate solution. New innovations in sustainable formulations and colour will set brands apart from competitors, while the comeback of colour cosmetics harnesses the power of nostalgia.

Trend Stage

- Innovator: A pioneer, disruptor, developer, trailblazer, progressive brand, retailer, business or person that is doing something new or unique.

- Early Adopter: Not the first, but still daring and risk-taking. They aspire to be the first to break a trend and are often trend-led not brand-led.

- Early Majority: Trend-conscious and trend aware, these play it safe and wait to see if a trend will have commercial appeal and success.

- Mainstreamer: Pick up on a trend in its most commercial form. Results driven rather than aesthetic driven. Affordable and cost-effective.

Innovators are prioritising lip care, superseding lipstick and other lip cosmetics as a result of the pandemic.

- As of June 2022, 10.6% of Innovators discussed lip care, while 9.6% discussed lip cosmetics, excluding lipstick

- This group is leading conversations around sustainability, with 14% discussing it as part of lip care in 2022 - the highest of any stage
- Innovators show the most interest in veganism and are leading innovation among vegan-formulated lip products and ranges

How you can action this:
- Be transparent about the origins of ingredients, ensuring no plants or ecosystems were harmed in the process. Look to vegan ingredient alternatives such as plant-based actives or upcycled ingredients, and source locally when possible
- Translate vegan lip care formulations to lip cosmetics, appealing to consumers looking to streamline conscious beauty routines
- Tap into the art-in-beauty movement with keepsake refillable cases users can refill year round with new lip care or cosmetic drops.

Priorities by stage: Early Adopter

As with the Innovators, the pandemic brought lip care to the same level as lip cosmetics for Early Adopters.

- Early Adopters are driving growth with the use of vitamin C in lip products, with 12% mentioning the ingredient in 2022
- 9% of Early Adopters are talking about peptides in lip care, often paired with hyaluronic acid for purported plumping and hydrating
- In June 2022, lip care and lip cosmetics (excluding lipstick) were discussed at the same level of 11.2% and 10.9% respectively, supporting the convergence of the two

How you can action this:
-A s the lines blur between lip care and cosmetics, harness the benefits of skinimalism with skincare-infused formulations. Highlight nourishing ingredients such as vitamin C, vitamin E and plant-based oils, butters and waxes
- Protection is becoming a mainstay across beauty categories. Offer lip products infused with SPF
- Make hyaluronic acid and peptides plumping heroes. Overnight lip treatments will appeal in lip care, while glosses, balms and lip oils appeal in lip cosmetics

Priorities by stage: Early Majority

Mask-wearing has led the Early Majority to prioritise smudge-proof formulations and long-wear lip colour.

- For the Early Majority, lip care only reached the level of lip cosmetics in June 2021, later than it did with early stages
- 13.2% of Early Majority discussed lip care, while 15.3% discussed lip cosmetics, excluding lipstick, as of June 2022
- Early Majority lead interest in lip mask product formats, with 11% mentioning them in 2022
- This group values long-wear formulations, having maintained interest since the pandemic

How you can action this:
- Tap into the emergence of lip care with tinted lip masks that nourish and provide aesthetic benefits, appealing to lazy skinimalists
- Prioritise transfer-proof and long-stay formulations in lipsticks and glosses
- Include lip primers in the mix to help prevent fading, bleeding and creasing

Priorities by stage: Mainstreamer

Mainstreamers have consistently prioritised lip cosmetics over lip care. While lipstick remains this group’s priority, it is falling significantly with them too.

- Lip cosmetics are key for Mainstreamers, with 16.8% discussing them in June 2022. 12.3% discussed lip care
- Glossy looks are gaining popularity with Mainstreamers. 33% mentioned products with "shine", "shiny" or "sheen" in 2022
- Late-stage users are driving vitamin E to the mainstream. 12% of Early Majority and Mainstreamers mentioned the ingredient in 2022
- Mainstreamers lead the #LipCombo trend (568.1m views) on TikTok. Moisturising lip care, plumping glosses and bold lip cosmetics are layered for the ultimate look

How you can action this:
- Highlight vitamin E in lipsticks and cosmetics to lock in moisture and hydration throughout the day
- Respond to the emergence of nostalgic 1990s/early 2000s aesthetics, offer buildable glosses with shiny finishes
- Create lip combo packs users can experiment with, from liners and lipsticks to oils and glosses. Feature popular combinations on social channels

Growth opportunities: environment-friendly lip care

Protopian beauty consumers are fuelling the growth of more sustainable formats. Every product category must cater to this demand, including lip care and cosmetics, by adopting new eco-formats and innovations.

Sustainability in lip care has seen growth since 2018, with 3.6% penetration on social media and +0.8ppts YoY growth. Highlighted in our Clean Beauty TrendCurve, the term ‘clean’ stopped growing in usage in 2020, however for lip products, "sustainability" and "refill" are growing. In 2022, 6% of users in the lip care conversation are talking about refills

Driven by Innovators, conscious lip care has been rising, from packaging to formulas. This group also showed interest in vegan lip products in 2022, with 14% of users mentioning veganism on social media. Ingredients such as plant-based butters, oils, waxes, squalane and collagen are highlighted.

How you can action this:
- Take a zero-waste approach with refillable lip products users can continually refill
- Veganism is increasingly becoming a path to purchase. Source ingredients locally, and strive towards vegan stamps of approval to back up formulations
- As clean colour gains momentum invest in naturally derived pigments, and clearly list colourants to increase transparency and appeal to Factivists

Growth opportunities: harness hybrid heroes

Multifunctional lip products tap into skinimalism as skincare-make-up hybrids become essential for frugal consumers and lazy skinimalists.

Lip hybrids present a key area of growth in skinimalism, addressing dryness, pigmentation and fine lines. The multitasking conversation in the lip category reached peak penetration in June 2022. Hybrid lip and cheek products are key; one in five users mentioned them in lip conversations on social media in 2021, at 20% penetration.

Skincare-infused ingredients are essential for hybrid formats, ensuring versatile product use in routines. In the US and UK, lip oil formats are growing rapidly. The term "lip oil" reached peak interest on Pinterest in June 2022, while Google Trends searches for trending lip oils have seen a steep increase. The Dior Lip Glow Oil has driven TikTok interest, accumulating 156m views.

How you can action this:

- As the clean girl aesthetic reigns, design and buy into high-shine lip glosses and oils
- Create multifunctional lip, eye and cheek hybrids that prioritise buildable formulations
- Lead with nourishing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, shea butter, vitamins E and C and fruit-based oils
- For a personalised look, incorporate pH-reacting lip and cheek balms that adapt to the user's skin

Growth opportunities: tap into ’notox‘ culture

Lip plumping conversations on social media grow, as "notox" products - those that replicate cosmetic procedures with needle-free solutions - come to the fore.

In 2022, 17.6% of social media users are talking about lip plumping. Zoom-driven anxiety has seen searches for aesthetic treatments increase by 50% in 2021, with procedures such as lip fillers gaining popularity. In a VICE UK survey, 59% of respondents compared such procedures to a haircut or manicure.

In tandem with the now-dominant clean aesthetic, opportunity lies within the lip category to front tweakment-like formulations without the cost or pain. See Ourself's Lip Plumping Regimen (pictured right). While ingredients capsicum, ginger and peppermint may provide instant temporary plumping, note that skin irritation and stinging sensations may occur, especially for those with sensitive skin, and should be avoided.

How you can action this:
- Make active ingredients known for their plumping properties heroes – hyaluronic acid, spicules and peptides
- Expand product formats to overnight treatments and lip oils that allow users to wake up with plump lips and achieve the no make-up look with little effort
- For those that opt to go under the needle, offer pre and post-op lip products that support recovery and treat bruising or swelling. Prioritise cooling beauty tools or lip masks, as well as hydrating formulations

Growth opportunities: colour cosmetics' comeback

While the lip cosmetics category was weakened by mask-wearing mandates, consumers are showing excitement for the return of life.

The lip category stood as the fastest-growing cosmetics sector in Q1 of 2022, at 48%. In France, data from NPD Group confirmed the week that mask mandates were lifted, sales of prestige lip make-up increased by 30%. The term "party" has not yet revived to pre-pandemic levels, however lip cosmetics are on the path to recovery, with party looks being more popular now than in 2021.

Expressive lip products will remain important. The return of nightlife and nostalgic 1990s and noughties aesthetics has driven a rise in terms "juicy", "buildable" and "shiny/e". #90sLips has captured 1.7m views on TikTok, while lip liner conversations on social media are increasing. The virality of products is also driving sales. Fifty years after its launch, Clinique’s Black Honey Lipstick went viral, selling out multiple times, with users recreating a 1990s pout.

How you can action this:
- With intermittent mask mandates, smudge-proof and non-sticky formulas must be prioritised as flexi-lifestyles move from screen-ready to on-the-go
- Lean into the return of the 1990s and early 2000s with companion lip liners, lipsticks and lip glosses, catering to the demand of experimental lip combo looks
- Emphasise the wellbeing benefits that come with lipstick wearing as consumers turn to beauty for everyday joy

Action points