‘Ribbons’ began to appear excessively in last year’s F/W collections. They are often used to add a flattering mood to the look, but depending on the size and , they may help emanate a completely different mood. Chanel put ribbons in the form of a bow tie to create a classic and formal mood that adds a sophisticated aura when worn with red lips. Valentino matched large-size ribbons with cut-away bodysuits or micro miniskirts, a different take on the Pink PP featured on the 22 Fall collection.

Viktor&Rolf showcased a baby blue dress on its runway. The dress was placed at an angle from the body, creating an optical illusion, to which Rolf Snoeren and Viktor Horsting explained, ‘In the digital era we are living in, there is always a disconnect between the internet world and the real world. We wanted the dress’s asymmetrical separation from the body to resonate with that disconnect.’ In addition to this message, the dress featured a robe-like design with ribbons around the waist to emphasize the curves of the body, adding a classic mood.

Colors from the green palette, such as acid green, have become the signature colors of the year, along with Viva Magenta, the Pantone color of 2023. Spangles, which were used exclusively on makeup or as parts of outfits in 22 Fall Haute Couture, were seen heavily embroidered on dresses and bodysuits this season. The overall looks, from flashy makeup to shiny spangles, shared a common color theme for a more unified mood.

The color green has been used steadily on runways in line with the eco-friendly fashion and beauty trend that became more prominent following the start of the post-pandemic era. Aqua green in Rahul Mishra’s collection, key lime in Giambattista Valli’s collection, and light teal and grey in Rami Al Ali’s collection were each combined with spangles to highlight the texture and mood of the flamboyant, elaborately designed pieces.

Feather decoration in bright and ornate colors helped escalate the luxurious yet restrained mood by unifying the entire tone of the look from head to toe. Fusion coral, pink lavender, and purple feathers adorned lavishly onto silk satin dresses exude a sense of mystery and sensuality with flirty and feminine, somewhat futuristic colors. Feather-trimmed outfits were often showcased in flashy colors, creating a sense of consistency and adding dimension to the facade of the statement pieces.

The biggest makeup trend of 23 S/S Haute Couture was the subtly ash-toned skin makeup that emphasized paleness of the skin with a hint of redness and a khaki hue. Different tones blend in with each other to create overall pale, flawless, yet delicately glowing skin. In line with the Harlequin theme, the Giorgio Armani Privé collection incorporated sparkling black accessories and Pierrot ruffs to make the outfit look more glamorous and the makeup more understated. If highly saturated fuchsia pink was the pink of 2022, this year’s pink is more subdued and digital lavender-like, creating tints of exquisite color where the light hits. On the Ashi Studio and La Métamorphose runways, a rubellite hue completed a sophisticated makeup look and defined the tone and manner in harmony with the primary styling and materials.

One of the biggest eye makeup trends of the season is using icy white/silver glitter instead of transparent glitter at the front of the eye for clearer, more defined eyes. When applied at the front of the eyes as well as right below the eyebrow bones, the glitter gives a highlighter effect, adding brightness to the eyes. Apply an ultra-glitter liquid product heavily at the front and blend it smoothly in towards the sides for a longer-lasting look. The latest trend is using one eyeshadow product across different parts of the face but applying it with varying intensity to adjust the brightness and contrast, making it appear as if multiple products were used.

Kim Jones, Fendi’s art director, and Peter Philips, a collaborating makeup artist, said that they wanted to create a lightweight couture runway makeup, which they did by highlighting the under eyes with white silvery glitter for a clearer, mystical look. The Giambattista Valli show also used pearl shade palettes to match the spangle outfits and silk dresses, with the white glitter parts reflecting the light as the models walked down the runway. Notably, the drop pearl accessories helped create a sense of unity by seamlessly blending in with both the costume as well as the makeup. The Elie Saab collection also mixed white glitter onto clean, bareface-like skin, topping it off with subtle peach nude lips for a refined look.

When it comes to the eyes, shimmery smokey charcoal, slate gray, soft nut brown, and black were mixed and blended to smudge the boundaries for soft, fog-like eye makeup instead of strong, defined smokey makeup. Eyeliners and eyeshadows were used on the eyelids, around the eyebrow bones, all the way to the under lashes to create almond-shaped eyes. Matte foundation was first applied onto the skin, then radiance primers were used to create a natural glow that hugs the curves of the face.

On most runways across the globe, contours of the face are naturally complemented with a delicate glow that accentuates the features of the face. Compared to the past when face contours clearly defined boundaries between the different features on the face, from below the cheekbones to the chin, contouring has definitely become less defined and more subtle. The currently trending underpainting contouring uses brushes with round edges and a large volume of hair, which help apply the liquid foundation with a light, natural gloss, thereby highlighting the foggy eyes without looking overdone.

The most prominent hair style of 23 S/S Haute Couture was the 2:8 parting. Hair is brushed roughly and towards the back so that its texture is visible to the naked eye and so that it does not distract the attention away from the makeup. Rahul Mishra’s show featured simple, meticulously styled hair to spotlight the aqua blue bodysuits and dresses as well as the makeup, all inspired by the cosmos. On the Aelis runway, the flashness of the aqua blue outfits and smokey makeup were subdued with deep brown hair. Chanel also opted for low ponytails for a poised mood, where highly nutritive hair treatments and hair oil were applied on the hair, after which it was brushed with a fine comb to naturally connect the gloss of the makeup to the glow of the hair. The 2:8 parting also helps complement the edges of the face by drawing the gaze away vertically.