#Trend Column
2023.11.27
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https://stories.amorepacific.com/en/2024-s-s-makeup-trends-as-seen-through-street-fashion
2024 S/S Makeup Trends as Seen Through Street Fashion
Editor’s note
The 2024 Spring/Summer street fashion, particularly in the context of the S/S runway shows held in the world's four major fashion capitals, was scrutinized for how makeup and hair trends have evolved into real-way styles. A predominant theme was minimalistic styling and restrained color palettes, echoing the runway's luxurious but understated makeup and hairstyling. This trend seems to be an extension of the soft grunge look and no-makeup look observed in the last 24 S/S ready-to-wear collections, with foundational makeup elements like red full lips and moisture-plumping skin makeup.
In this column, we delve into the street fashion makeup trends compared to the collections, sharing insights into the experimentations with makeup.
1. Smokey Eyes Captured Inside
Paris
NY
Paris
The realm of smokey eye makeup has transformed. Unlike the traditional approach, which achieves a layered gradient effect by covering the entire eyelid, this collection witnessed a change. Black eyeshadow was applied only up to the crease, mimicking the appearance of thick eyeliner. The focus was on enhancing the horizontal length rather than the vertical, giving the illusion of larger eyes.
Roberto Cavalli, 24 S/S Milan
Given the broader eyelid area, semi-smokey makeup might overshadow the lashes, but lashes are an indispensable element of such looks. A common query in makeup classes revolves around the correct use of eyelash curlers. Even without an artist's technical skills, knowing the proper curler can achieve well-curled lashes. Curlers are mainly divided into plastic and metal types. Plastic curlers are portable, but with shorter handles, they may curl only parts of the lashes. On the other hand, metal curlers can maintain curls longer even with relatively little pressure, especially when lightly heated with a lighter. Queries about asymmetrically curled lashes are also common, often due to the eye curvature difference. If slight asymmetry in eye size is a concern, consider using two curlers with different curvatures. Also, the hand's position while curling can affect the direction, so keeping the hand straight in front is best to achieve proper curling.
2. All That Red
Paris
Paris
Paris
Vivid red has emerged as the mega-trend color in lip makeup, manifesting in various shades with different brightness levels in the real way. The use of red as a bold point color gives an impression of minimal makeup yet somehow achieves a look that is both complete and maximalist. This might be what epitomizes classic makeup. While runways showcased red lips in various textures like glossy and matte, real-way trends predominantly display matte textures, focusing on the entire shape of the lips.
Annie's Ibiza, London
For perfecting the classic red full lip, lip condition is paramount, just as smooth, blemish-free skin is crucial for beautiful skin makeup; creating a good base is essential, as the clarity of red can alter the complexion and mood.
Before starting makeup, apply a multi-balm or lip mask as the first step, then proceed with the rest of the makeup. When the time comes for lip makeup—the final stage—use a tissue to wipe off any excess product. Applying a lip care product fills the creases and irregularities of the lips with moisture, preventing the formation of dry flakes and maintaining a hydrated state. This preparation allows the vivid red color to be fully expressed. Additionally, styling your hair in an updo contributes to the overall look, creating a neat and classic ambiance that underscores a timeless, classical image.
Before starting makeup, apply a multi-balm or lip mask as the first step, then proceed with the rest of the makeup. When the time comes for lip makeup—the final stage—use a tissue to wipe off any excess product. Applying a lip care product fills the creases and irregularities of the lips with moisture, preventing the formation of dry flakes and maintaining a hydrated state. This preparation allows the vivid red color to be fully expressed. Additionally, styling your hair in an updo contributes to the overall look, creating a neat and classic ambiance that underscores a timeless, classical image.
3. Smoked Out Wings
Paris
Milan
London
In the Dior ’22 spring haute couture collection, Peter Philips used white eyeliner to highlight the makeup. At that time, the white liner was thought to brighten the face, while black eye makeup emphasized classicism.
Dolce&Gabbana, 24 S/S Milan
Similar to the restrained color palette of this season's real-way makeup, the use of black eyeliner alone to create winged eyes was prominent. To the untrained eye, it might seem like no eyeshadow was used, but in such minimal makeup, skin expression around the eyes, naturally covering dullness and dark circles, becomes crucial. The 'Demi makeup method,' gaining attention on TikTok as a new 'no makeup' technique, is ideal for creating a base for smoked-out wing makeup. Demi makeup, almost like a no-makeup state, analyzes small facial areas and contours like fine lines and dark circles, using color correcting to conceal imperfections. This method, combined with black eyeliner, is ideal for face makeup. Here's a straightforward approach for those who find it challenging to apply eyeliner precisely. The solution lies in recognizing that precision need not be the aim from the outset. Begin by sketching the shape with a pencil liner, then use a concealer brush or the pointed edge of a cotton swab dipped in foundation or concealer to refine the outer edges inward, sculpting the sharpness of the line. By gradually paring from the outside in, one can effortlessly achieve the sharpness of eyeliner without the burden of initial exactness.
4. Jello Skin
Paris
NY
London
Jello skin refers to a complexion that radiates natural luminosity from within, akin to America's iconic Jell-O - transparent yet firm pudding.
Upon first meeting, we often assess someone's condition by their complexion. The skin, covering the largest area of the face, is always deemed beautiful and healthy when transparent and glowing.
Rokh, 24 S/S Paris
This collection focuses not on glossiness but on the natural radiance emanating from deep within the skin. A glow texture base is applied first to achieve fine skin texture, even with uneven skin. Face products without artificial glitters or pigments are applied with a brush to create a thin layer, and a rounded foundation brush is utilized to ensure the glow of the foundation remains constant on the skin. Using a puff can absorb the product, potentially diminishing its luminosity and exposing skin imperfections. If brush strokes remain, lightly tap with a sponge with large pores sprayed with a moisture fixer to eliminate marks. Use different-sized brushes for various facial areas if the foundation application is heavy. For areas with thin skin and fine lines, like around the eyes and nose, a small, flat brush like a concealer brush helps maintain moisture while improving skin adhesion. Before using a latex sponge, it should be sufficiently dampened to retain moisture within. However, if the sponge is overly wet, it becomes challenging to transfer the foundation effectively. Pressing out the excess water with a tissue after moistening is advisable. A damp sponge, as opposed to a dry one, allows for more effective blending against the skin, creating an appearance of enhanced adherence and an all-over glow, contributing to a more hydrated look.
5. Scarf Hair Styling
NY
Paris
Milan
As seen in Lola Casademunt's ready-to-wear runway, scarf hair styling has made a comeback. This revival hair trend, which cannot overlook headbands, can be interpreted as a modernized version of the 90s hairstyles.
Lola Casademunt by Maite, 24 S/S Barcelona
While oversized accessories and repeated small hairpieces dominated the trend until now, the current shift leans towards using bandana styles to wrap the hair, focusing more on utilizing hair accessories rather than changing the hair itself. Additionally, in terms of color, there's a concerted effort to maintain uniformity between the scarves, outfits, and point makeup, creating a simple yet classic look. The choice of colors has been deliberately subdued to avoid an outdated appearance resulting from the mixing of shades.
The hallmark of scarf styling lies in its versatility, adapting to different face shapes and the desired look of the day. It can be tied at the front or back of the head or knotted around the neck in its traditional use. In this season’s real-way trend, scarves are paired with slicked-back hairstyles, evoking memories of my time working as a makeup artist in the United States, where it was a typical style among African Americans. Initially used initially to manage voluminous curly hair, scarves have now transcended to become a diverse decorative element in outfit and hairstyle choices within this real-way trend.
The hallmark of scarf styling lies in its versatility, adapting to different face shapes and the desired look of the day. It can be tied at the front or back of the head or knotted around the neck in its traditional use. In this season’s real-way trend, scarves are paired with slicked-back hairstyles, evoking memories of my time working as a makeup artist in the United States, where it was a typical style among African Americans. Initially used initially to manage voluminous curly hair, scarves have now transcended to become a diverse decorative element in outfit and hairstyle choices within this real-way trend.
Written
Cha Min-kyung Amorepacific Makeup Professionals Team
The makeup trend keywords utilized in this material were collected and analyzed by the Makeup Pro Team (Hera Div.)
from numerous designer collections.
Image reference http://spotlight.launchmetrics.com
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