2023 F/W Runway Fashion & Beauty Trend - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
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2023.03.24
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2023 F/W Runway Fashion & Beauty Trend



At the Fall-Winter 2023 season, fashion and makeup that you can wear as part of your casual everyday look garnered the attention of viewers. As I mentioned in my previous columns, I believe that not only a brand's fashion and beauty suggestions, but also the atmosphere at the fashion show and things that symbolize the brand altogether create a brand’s value. This, in particular, is well demonstrated in Christian Dior’s collection.


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Dior Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 Show


Before getting into Dior’s runway makeup, I would like to look at the stage design and the overall beauty of the collection first. The textile installations, resembling tentacles, are made using fabric, lace, and embroidery by Portuguese artist Joana Vasconcelos, who was inspired by the Archives of Christian Dior (digital files of collections and materials owned by Christian Dior). The installations, which bridge art and fashion, pay homage to Catherine Dior, the younger sister of Christian Dior and the symbol of Miss Dior.

Edith Piaf’s “Non, Je Ne Regrette Rien,” which is played towards the end of the Dior collection, is a song that everyone should have heard at least once. The song blends well with the stage and reveals the dignity of France. The brand Dior itself also makes people think immediately of France. I was envious of the fact that a single brand can elevate a country’s national status, and I thought that I should work harder to make people think of Amorepacific as a brand made in Korea.

In this makeup column, I will briefly introduce the women's ready-to-wear fashion trend from the Fall-Winter 2023 season and present my analysis of the beauty trend.


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Dior Show AW 23 Peter Philips Make-up Look


You could skip through the video above, but I urge you to watch this one. It lays bare the behind-the-scenes moments at fashion shows where the art director, staff, countless models, and all the other people involved in the show are busy working just to present a single collection from a brand. Peter Philips, the Creative & Image Director of Dior, put particular emphasis on eye makeup by creating shades with eyelines and eye shadow as different variations of semi-smokey makeups. For the skin, he gave it a glowing finish and used a concealer to create a slightly illuminated look. He also created an elegant gaze by making the eyebrows a little longer. For the eyes, he extended the inner and outer corners of the eyes for a mysterious look with varying curves. The result is dark, intense eye makeup and clear, flawless skin.

Recently, I visited Dongdaemun Design Plaza (DDP) because the HERA makeup pro team that I am a member of became responsible for makeup for C.at Work Festa 2023. I became really emotional as soon as I saw HERA’s promotional video and the sponsor logo at DDP packed with numerous fashion brands and corporate sponsors. Watching my team review numerous reference plans for the runway makeup and communicate with pertinent fashion brands, I felt extremely proud of the fact that I am a part of the Korean cosmetics industry. You can watch this episode on HERA’s YouTube channel.


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Fashion Week Special | A Close-up Look at the Bustling Backstage Moments of a Makeup Artist | Fact Check by HERA





Women’s Fashion Trend - 2023 Fall / Winter

1

Revival Power Shoulder Suit



Ferragamo, Milan

Balenciaga, Paris

Brandon Maxwell, NY

Helen Anthony, London



Trench coats are the undeniable star of the Fall-Winter fashion, but coats worn over suits stood out in these collections. Major collections flaunted classic long oversized jackets, highlighted by timeless designs with shoulder silhouettes reminiscent of power shoulders from the 1980s.

Power dressing, which best describes coats over suits, implies dignity and authority. The expression describes the image of an ambitious working woman. The outfits look like office wear, but cover over 1/3 of the models’ hands, a detail that gives a feminine look.




2

Only Corset



Chloé, Paris

Puppets And Puppets, NY

Aniye Records, Milan



Corset style outfits also drew much attention. While in the Fall-Winter 2022 runway, a corset was layered on top of another item of clothing or mixed with a sweater, these collections feature thin materials like classic mesh or romantic lace. The feminine, sexy design reveals the cleavage, in continuation of the see-through trend from Spring-Summer 2023.




Women’s Beauty Trend - 2023 Fall / Winter

1

Subtle Glass Skin



Zimmermann, Paris

Alessandra Rich, Paris

Budapest Select, Milan



The Fall-Winter 2023 makeup is characterized by mysterious and gorgeously shimmering skin. Skin makeup plays a crucial role in creating an elegant look. Carrying on with the skin makeup trend from S/S 2023 collections, this season also flaunts slightly glowing skin that illuminates angular surfaces of the face. Eye makeup also looks natural with models appearing as if they are not wearing eye makeup at all. Colors are only applied thinly in the base makeup stage. To enliven the complexion, coral brown color is applied just below the cheekbones. A coat of color lip balm or light-colored lip gloss is applied to complement the glossy skin and stress the natural curves on the lips.




2

Metallic Semi-smokey Eyes



Chanel, Paris

Weinsanto, Paris

Mark Fast, London



At the Chanel collection held in Paris on March 7, classic tweed jackets were matched with bluish white metallic eyeshadows that lighten up the inner corners of the eyes, thus expanding the length of eyes. Virginie Viard has said that she loves the softness and strength of camellia, which is the eternal code of the House. I could also see the blend of glam and the grunge looks that were popular in the 60s and 70s. Gray with a hint of brown is used to emphasize the eye socket and is blended smoothly around and below the eyes to create shadows.

The Weinsanto and Mark Fast collections also used layers of eye shadows to add depth and used eyelashes to add definition to the eyes. They also used metallic shadows on the inner corners of the eyes to spice up the look. Towards the outer corners of the eyes, they used matt shadows so that the makeup is well coordinated with the fashion. Eyelashes can make your face look smaller because they widen the eye area and reduce the empty area on the face.




3

Wide Blusher



Johanna Ortiz, Paris

Loveshackfancy, NY

Cormio, Milan



The Fall-Winter 2023 collections also featured exaggerated blush that stretched from the cheekbone to the area below the cheeks. When blushers are applied below the center of the cheeks, it can make your face look droopy, so often the tip of the nose is used as the reference point. They are typically applied evenly to prevent them from becoming cakey, but this season, most brands really accentuated the wide area so that even the color and the areas blushers are used are noticeable. Different shades of coral peach were used to liven up the face as a refreshing finish to the face makeup.

Cheeks and lips are places where rosy hues are used the most. For those collections, lip makeup was applied to match the color of the cheeks and slightly invigorate the overall look. Because the lip color doesn’t deviate too much from the color of the blusher, the entire face makeup blends together well and creates the girlish look.




4

Classic Red Lip



Negris LeBrum, NY

Emilia Wickstead, London

CFCL, Paris



Red lipstick, one of the most timeless and basic makeup items, has made a comeback. It is the epitome of the classic makeup, but you can also match it with a casual outfit to create a sophisticated look. This season, red made the major color even in outfits. The best way to apply a red lipstick is to cover the entire lips with red for the most sophisticated and classic look. In the Negris LeBrum, Emilia Wickstead, CFCL collections, matt and creamy lipstick textures, instead of gloss finishes, completed the classic mood. If you want to look subtle and intelligent, create clean and flawless skin and draw arched eyebrows to complete a career woman look.




※The Makeup Professionals Team (Hera division) collected and analyzed the makeup trend keywords used in this column, which they selected from among the makeup looks seen in numerous design collections.
※Written by : Cha Min-kyung, Makeup Professionals Team
※Images courtesy of : http://spotlight.launchmetrics.com
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