2022 Fall Haute Couture Beauty - AMORE STORIES - ENGLISH
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2022.09.02
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2022 Fall Haute Couture Beauty



The Haute Couture show takes place in Paris once a season, typically three months after the Ready-to-Wear show of the same season. The haute couture collection for the 2022 F/W season was presented in July, with 36 designers showcasing their best atelier work, often featuring harmony between state-of-the-art technology and the fashion house handiwork.

Trends as seen in haute couture differ significantly from more fleeting ones, such as those seen in fast fashion. Rather, haute couture trends are interpreted in terms of mid-to-long-term directions, where the contemporary archives of illustrious fashion brands like Chanel, Christian Dior, and Versace are seen in relation to cutting-edge technologies. While many designers highlight the season's trends by incorporating new materials and details into classic, iconic fashion and silhouettes, other haute couture designers implement unique portraits that emblematize the human body structure or utilize 3D printers.





“Fashion is an instrument for change, to shift us emotionally. Through biomimicry I look at the forces behind the forms in nature, these patterns and natural cycles are my guide to explore new forms of feminity for a more conscious and sustainable fashion for the future.” - Iris van Herpen

Inspired by post-humanism identity, metaverse, and surrealism, and characterized by the ever-blurring boundaries between digital and real, the very futuristic collection presented by Dutch designer Iris van Herpen was created around the theme of Meta Morphism.



Iris Van Herpen, Haute Couture Collection



The designer found inspiration in Ovid's poems, and then employed cutting-edge technology to give life to her made-up goddesses. The works in the collection, which are designed with eco-friendly materials, highlight intriguing avatar-like motions that seem to belong in a whole new dimension of space, thanks to the one-of-a-kind geometric elements, from skeletal features that wrap around the body, down to the shoes and the tips of the nails, all created using the 3D printer. The braided hair and metallic eye makeup also added to this stunning, almost mythologically-inspired structure. (To learn more about the cosmetics, read the following chapter.)

As such, the haute couture collection exemplifies the designers' creative peak and their mastery of their craftsmanship, all of which evolve continuously alongside the heritage of their fashion house. The efforts that go into the makeup and hair design also help accentuate the overall artistry.

This column outlines the details of backstage makeup as seen in haute couture collections, a topic that has yet to be covered in this series. The focus will be to unfold the creative ways of expression, which are quite different from the trends seen in ready-to-wear collections, as well as the makeup elements that usually appear in the backstage area of haute couture.



2022 Fall Haute Couture Beauty

1 Metallic foil art

Backstage, Iris Van Herpen



An haute couture collection epitomizes the brand’s identity. A wide variety of materials was absorbed into this season’s apparel and makeup. Tin foil was used to highlight the eyes in the Iris van Herpen collection. Makeup elements with remarkable texture and materiality were presented in line with the haute couture apparel made using 3D-printing technology, instead of relying on two-dimensional fabrics. Unique texture metallic makeup was adopted to add to the front and the edge of the eye, as well as the tips of the nails being modeled with a 3D printer, all of which worked to highlight the artistry of experimental haute couture that blends innovative technology with the metaverse.



2 Gold leaf makeup

Elie Saab, Haute Couture Collection



The Elie Saab collection, carried out under the theme of The Beginning of Twilight, utilized warm light that spreads to every corner of the metallic materials to create fascinating twilight movements. Thinly braided hair was shaped into a laurel wreath, with the luxurious and lavish texture embodying the image of a goddess. Subtle shades of clothing and makeup maximized elegance, and the gold leaf material scattered over the entire face and the lip ring on the bottom lip organically bridged the mood of the apparel and that of the makeup. The eyebrows were brushed in their comfortable direction, and mute pink was applied on the eyes and cheeks to embody the image of a goddess with human allure.

The dazzling gold in the makeup was harmonized with neck beads to create an overall exquisitely gorgeous atmosphere.



3 Silver glitter

Fendi, Haute Couture Collection



The Fendi collection was characterized by the sublime beauty of see-through designs embroidered with sparkling beads on transparent fabrics. In particular, the runway was filled with dresses that highlighted the elegant curves of the body. As for the makeup, heavily applied silver glitter on the eyelids created an overall transparent shimmer on the face.

A satin luster that harmonizes with the transparent shimmer of apparel and makeup was used to highlight the smooth and airy skin texture. The lip gloss applied in multiple layers along the lip line contributed to completing a flawless, three-dimensional, transparent mood.



4 Various gem stones

Alexis Mabille

Giorgio Armani Privé

Antonio Grimaldi



Gems are used in makeup to emphasize seduction, brilliance, and splendor. Gems were introduced in our last column as a recent trend, inspired by the TV series Euphoria. In this season, gems were mainly attached around the eyes, now without the wing liner. As in the Alexis Mabille collection, they were used not only in the makeup, but also in the hair design so as to set the overall tone of the collection.

In the Giorgio Armani Privé collection, black gems were applied to three different sections of the eye - two upper corners and the bottom lid - for a more seductive and subdued look, which made the eyes appear larger and longer.

In Antonio Grimaldi's collection, clearly bright small gems were used to draw a line under the eyes, creating a gorgeous and pure image that matched the transparent and uncomplicated glitter materials used in his collection. As such, gems used in face styling are being applied to a growing number of areas.



5 Double wing eye liner

Stéphane Rolland

Georges Hobeika

Giambattista Valli



Winged eyeliners appear quite frequently on haute couture runways. The shape, place, and gradation of winged eyeliner makeup tend to differ depending on the overall mood of the collection, but this season’s haute couture eyeliner makeup seemed to maintain a more minimalistic design. The 2022 Fall collection was characterized by winged eyeliner makeup whose ‘wing’ was often split in two.

Is this double-winged eyeliner makeup an evolution from the previous version? Some might call it transparent eyeliner makeup since it creates an optical illusion that makes the eyes look longer and larger, thanks to its contrast with the actual eyeliner or eyeshadow. When you give this look a try, aim for a more sophisticated smudge effect by emphasizing the upper and lower lines of the eyes with a black kohl eyeliner pencil.



6 Re-classic make-up

Chanel

Schiaparelli

Christian Dior



Most luxury fashion house brands presented their own interpretation of classic makeup. The Chanel collection employed a subtly blended semi-smokey look. Looking at the makeup up close, you will see that dark violet eyeshadow was spread on as a base, topped with black eyeshadow to maximize the shadows and highlights for a practical classic makeup.

Every year, the Schiaparelli collection features bold, glamorous accessories that accentuate its avant-garde silhouettes. This fall, its runway was also showered with bold and classic makeup that supplemented the intensely beautiful collection. The outfits were matched with vivid makeup that stressed monotone smokey eyeliner whose wing extended upwards. The two-toned lip makeup, where two different colors were applied along the outline of the lips and on the lips themselves, helped highlight the plumpness of the lips.

The Dior Couture presented a rather ethnic collection with neutral-colored motives, inspired by The Tree of Life, which is a traditional Ukrainian pattern. The exotic makeup also added to this enticing mood. The flawless, transparent skin had just a touch of alluring luster, and the contours of the face were covered with a salmon coral color from the center of the cheek to the temple. The unexaggerated hair design, which was either braided or tied, added to the modern look, drawing the center of focus to the elegance of the apparel itself.



※ The Makeup Professionals Team (Hera division) collected and analyzed the makeup trend keywords used in this column, which they selected from among the makeup looks seen in numerous design collections.
※ Written by : Yoon Kyung-soo, Cha Min-kyung, Makeup Professionals Team
※ Images courtesy of imaxtree.com


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